Scabbard Chimney in SCNL

Neil working hard to get to the base of Scabbard Chimney (V,6***)

After abseiling down Scabbard Chimney (V,6***) the other day, I was well keen to get up to it and have a go. Neil Pope was free and up for a climb, so we set off. We got to the SCNL car park to find 3 other teams already 40 mins up the path with headtorhes - little did we know at this point that they were about to be breaking trail for us - thanks guys! We got to the snow to discover just how deep it was - consistently up to knee level and often up to waist level. In the coire we found the teams fighting/swimming up to Central Grooves and Raeburn's Route. Our route up to Scabbard Chimney was a little less challenging.

Teams working incredibly hard to get to the base of Central Grooves (VII,7****) and Raeburn's Route (IV,4***)

The first pitch started with the short chimney and was a little awkward. The offwidth crack to follow was rejecting my initial attempts so I brought Neil up to give me time to think. My next effort was a little more determined and I found a brilliant hook, which led to finding the nuts on the left wall, which took me to the proper first belay - awesome - that was the pitch I was worried about, hearing that the thin slab, had caused some leaders to fall off!

Neil coming up towards the first belay - finishing the first awkward chimney

After the first short chimney on pitch 1 is this offwidth crack. I was a bit nervous of it, so I belayed at it's base, splitting the pitch into 2. It worked out well after finding a couple of bits of gear and great hooks on the left wall.

Neil arriving at the first belay

The team on the first belay of Central Grooves - 3 people on the hanging stance I think, in the centre of the photo

This is the view up the third pitch (our 4th pitch) from the sentry box belay.

The next pitch to the sentry box was brilliant too, with excellent climbing - a little less technical than the previous pitch.This led to the main event - the pitch in the photo above. The last pitch was initially a little thin, but the many pegs were helpful, and the hooks were deep. Still I found this less technical than the offwidth crack/slab pitch earlier - but all pitches were ***. A fantastic route. Cheers for a great day Neil.

Neil doing the awkward moves to get up this crack to the sentry box belay

Welcome to the sentry box

Neil exiting the difficulties of Scabbard Chimney

Colours are beginning to change on the Aonach Eagach Ridge

2 quick abseils off

Time to pack away, now that it's in the bag. The team on Central Grooves were on pitch 3 with about an hour of daylight left - behind Neil on the cliff in the photo.

A Day In Glencoe

Lost Valley and Beinn Fhada behind Andrew and Sean

Today I was with the First year group from the Fort William Uni, and we headed off to Glencoe for a mountain day, in again brilliant weather. Just another day of great weather in the Highlands! We went up Lost Valley - and the autumnal colours with superb visibility were beautiful. The four, Sean, Linsay, Daniel and Andrew proved to be fit, strong and determined. Linsay and Sean proved to be carrying injuries that gave them a great deal of pain. It's rare to see people push on through such pain, and at the same time not complain or be negative. They were both inspirational today.

Andrew and Sean with Bidean nam Bian behind

It did try to snow at one point today, but it never really materialised - so just another great Autumn day.

Linsay (carefully hiding her injury) and Andrew on their way down off Stob Coire nan Lochan

Ledge Route In The Sun

Moving well up Ledge Route

Today I was working for the WHC and Ben and I took the second year group up Ledge route to look at their decision making, judgement and leadership skills on steep ground. It was one of those days on Ben Nevis that dreams are made of - the weather was perfect and the views were sensational.

A climber in Tower Gap, crossing to the other side

I think it was Mike Pescod that we saw quickly jumping across the Tower Gap high on Tower Ridge.

The climbers has crossed Tower Gap and are moving up towards the top of Tower Ridge

A minute or so later, Mike was standing at the top with his client, about to have their lunch with a perfect view of the highlands.

The new cairn at the top of Number 4 Gully

We met the builder of the new Cairn at the top of Number 4 Gully. He told us the secrets of how he built the cairn, especially how he got that enormous rock onto the top - by himself!!!

The snowy top of the Ben today

There is a little snow on the summit of the Ben at the moment. Tower Ridge was clear of snow from what I could see. It was a brilliant day. It was the first day on the North Face of the Ben for most of the group, and the first time on the top for at least one of the group - a winning day for all of us.

A Quick Paddle

The mist clears to reveal Ben Nevis in the background

Working for Outward Bound today Matt led a morning paddle across Loch Eil. The thick sea level morning mist slowly cleared and revealed the Ben in the distance. I had my winter tyres fitted yesterday, so middle autumn is here and winter is in sight. This morning, most of us had our first morning of scraping ice off our windows - happy days of snow and ice are ahead ...

A clear view of the autumnal Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis, Or Maybe Not

The Ben on Friday at about 11.30am

Jagged Globe - Winter Mountaineering

So on Friday we decided to go climb on Ben Nevis, on one of the lower climbs - the wind was due to be strong. As I was driving to work I could feel the strength of the wind, and then battling with the minibus over the bridge made my eyes open a little, so it wasn't too much of a surprise when people were being blown over on the path up to the CIC. In a bit of a huddle (reminiscent of rugby) we decided to go down. We eventually found sanctuary in a cafe and then the Ice Factor for some final box ticking of ropework and movement coaching before the course wound up at the end of the week.

Thank you to Dan, Peter, Ruth, Dan, John and Barry for good company and a great week. Best wishes to Peter on Tough Mudder.