Sabtu, 14 Februari 2009

Happy Valentine's Day - Boomerang Arete

Today working for Adventure Peaks I met Alan and Majella (Jelly). They'd booked onto an Improvers Snow and Ice climbing weekend, so we were on the search for some III+ climbing. The only problem was the weather and the state of the snow. The wind was SW gusting 50mph on ridges, 3 degrees at 900m, drizzle and poor vis, and the snow/ice having a mild thaw - not ace.

We settled on Boomerang Arete (210m III*) in Stob Coire Nan Lochan. The only thing to be careful of was loose rocks typical on this route in a thaw. I'd grade the hard bits at III+, but can be protected. I even managed an ice screw placement, on an arete ! I'll definitely be doing it again. The first photo shows Jelly approaching the semi hanging belay, and the second shows the final airy arete.

At the summit, for a second we even managed to see the car !

On the way out I walked around the entire coire, to check the routes.

Today nobody climbed NC gully, at least one party climbed SC gully - it looked thin but safe (third photo). Nobody on Twisting Gully (fourth photo). Lots of people on Dorsal Arete and a team in Boomerang Gully.



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