Ice On Stob Coire Nam Beith

Tony coming up our last pitch

Ed Chard

Ed Chard

I joined Jagged Globe today. Ed Chard was taking out Tony for a day of guiding, so we had an instructor ratio of 2:1 ! Looking for ice, but not exposed to the winds high up, we decided to head for Aonach Dubh, West Face and Stob Coire Nam Beith. We passed No. 6 Gully on the West face, and from across the valley, could see that it wasn't safe to climb. A massive amount of melting has happened in the last 48 hours and especially the last 24 hours. The stream has swollen hughly and is not safely passable in most places without getting a boot full of water, or being swept away. At the end of the day, No. 6 Gully had virtually melted off and was absolutely unclimeable - it was now a waterfall again. Matt and I were lucky to get the last climb yesterday.

Moving up to take a look at Central Gully on Stob Coire Nam Beith - again the entire route was missing or unclimable. The ice where I put my first belay ice screw yesterday (22cm screw) had completely melted and become black rock !
We climbed 2 pitches on the ice left of the direct Central Gully start. PYB also had the same idea - but for bottom roping.

The North Westerly and Northerly winds will continue, and the temp will drop overnight and tomorrow. The freezing level will initially be low down at about 450m. It was 8.3C on Aonach Mor today at 11am, but is already down to -2.3C (5pm). It's forecast to be -5C at the summit of the Ben tomorrow am. Good news to complete this thaw freeze cycle.