Turf Walk

Ed abseiling into Easy Gully

The Jagged Globe Snow and Ice Climbing course today headed for Aonach Mor. It was set to be a fantastic day, but still the East Face wasn't too busy. Again Easy Gully was very solid, making for an easy descent. As we got to the bottom of the East Face, the sun had hit the face and the ice started to melt for the couple of hours that the sun was on it. Ed was on Morwind and we opted for Turf Walk (III,4*). Mark Hendry went for Tunnel Vision.

Fred coming up pitch 1 of Turf Walk

It was great to be climbing in the sun - I only wore 3 thin layers, and thin gloves - I think we may have even picked up some colour from the sun - where's the cold, spindrift and suffering - that'll probably be back soon...

Tariq on Turf Walk

Fred and Tariq said that their favourite climb of the week had been Twisting Gully, so next year we'll try some harder mixed climbs, with interesting lines.

Adrian, Tariq, Jim and Fred

It was a great week for the team and a brilliant week for weather and conditions. Things are however now set to change.

Tower Scoop

Today (Tuesday) I was working for Jagged Globe alongside Ed Chard on their Snow and Ice Climbing Course. We went to take a look at the Ben. When we got to the CIC hut, the wind was much stronger than we had expected and the gusts were quite powerful. We could see quite a lot of snow moving about and building in some areas. We decided to go into Observatory Gully, with a view to doing Tower Scoop (III**). We found the snow to be patched with windslab, but as we gained height the patches coalesced, but with careful route choice a safe route was possible close to the Scoop. The snow here was a tricky again, so we pitched up to the rock, and enjoyed 2 pitches on the Scoop. Topping out the neve was solid. The wind at this point was regularly gusting, and the snow into Tower Gully looked dubious so we decided to go down Observatory Gully instead. This was only a short ice climb but a great day out.

The video is poor quality but gives an idea that the ice is building. Point 5 looks terrific..

A quick look around Observatory Gully on the way to Tower Scoop from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Ice On Stob Coire Nam Beith

Tony coming up our last pitch

Ed Chard

Ed Chard

I joined Jagged Globe today. Ed Chard was taking out Tony for a day of guiding, so we had an instructor ratio of 2:1 ! Looking for ice, but not exposed to the winds high up, we decided to head for Aonach Dubh, West Face and Stob Coire Nam Beith. We passed No. 6 Gully on the West face, and from across the valley, could see that it wasn't safe to climb. A massive amount of melting has happened in the last 48 hours and especially the last 24 hours. The stream has swollen hughly and is not safely passable in most places without getting a boot full of water, or being swept away. At the end of the day, No. 6 Gully had virtually melted off and was absolutely unclimeable - it was now a waterfall again. Matt and I were lucky to get the last climb yesterday.

Moving up to take a look at Central Gully on Stob Coire Nam Beith - again the entire route was missing or unclimable. The ice where I put my first belay ice screw yesterday (22cm screw) had completely melted and become black rock !
We climbed 2 pitches on the ice left of the direct Central Gully start. PYB also had the same idea - but for bottom roping.

The North Westerly and Northerly winds will continue, and the temp will drop overnight and tomorrow. The freezing level will initially be low down at about 450m. It was 8.3C on Aonach Mor today at 11am, but is already down to -2.3C (5pm). It's forecast to be -5C at the summit of the Ben tomorrow am. Good news to complete this thaw freeze cycle.