Nav training in Scotland

On Thursday, nav training around Glen Finnan. Unfortunately the weather wasn't poor enough for poor vis micro nav...

A stunning view, showing that the weather was mixed, rain, light winds and mid level clouds

The next day was better for poor vis micro nav. Here Lena is doing fine nav work on Aonach Mor, in consistent cold fine rain, strong wind chill, low cloud and poor vis.... Exactly what we need!! Today was colder than lots of winter days, but no frost bite :)

Lena Brune, on it, hitting every leg

Brilliant cold, poor vis conditions

Somewhere near the summit - I think !!

Looking out East in a break in the cloud

Not exactly the conditions we were looking for, for testing poor vis nav training, but still full on Scottish weather! This time no midges :)

Aonach Mor - Sans Harness

The east face looks in good condition at the moment (from the top!). Here is a cut exit for White Shark (I could have done with one of these 2 years ago, when I got stuck under the cornice!)

Lena and I opted for an easier day today using the Gondola to get to Aonach Mor East Face. We had a relaxed walk up to the top, talking about what to do, with bags full of both ice and mixed racks. So... Our bags were full of rack, but one of us didn't have a harness (she'll remain nameless!), so the conversation changed to - how shall we spend the rest of the day! We had a quick walk about and there were quite a few climbers about. I looked at a couple of exits - White Shark has a good cornice notch. Left Twin is as easy as ever. Right Twin has a big sagging cracked but frozen cornice over it, but climbers have found an exit, sharp left looking up (right looking down) (Split Buttress exit).

Here is Ben and Lena - one of them forgot their harness today!!

Nevis Range was hugely busy today

We used a little of our spare time to drive over to the Ben track from Nevis Range to take a look at the tree damage. A lot of tree felling is needed before this road is viable again

Here is the main obstruction 100m after the gate

Aonach an Nid

Today I started a 5 day winter mountaineering course with Chris, Steve and Colin. With a high risk avalanche forecast, poor vis, moderate winds and more snow than you can shake a stick at we headed for Aonach Mor and Aonach an Nid...

Straight out of the Gondola, I set them the task of breaking a trail each and immediately they were swimming up to their chest in soft snow!! We got our way up the Nid and made our way to the top of the ski resort. I had a quick look down on Left Twin - the climbing teams that went up for a look made a wise retreat... Definitely the wrong day for the East Face!

Today was the first day for axe and crampons for the team and they did well in the deep snow and difficult conditions. We did get some clear vis for a few seconds on the way down..

The ski resort was busy with all the powder ... It looked like great conditions, on and off piste..

A brilliant first day of our course... Best wishes to those on MIC assessment this week..

Winter Mountaineering - Day 1

The team moving towards steep ground

This week I'm working for Jagged Globe on a Winter Mountaineering week. We went to Nevis Range and the Aonach an Nid ridge - as did several others mountaineering teams and a team of Ski Mountaineers. We soon got onto some ground a little steeper, but always in the mist. At the top we got the ropes out and started looking at anchors and use of the rope.

The snow at the edge of the Aonach an Nid ridge

There was a little rain and then drizzle today, but not much to mention. The mist was persistant but added to the atmosphere today. It was good to have a day of very little wind or rain for a change (but unfortunately high temperatures!).

Best wishes to everybody on assessment this week...

Aonach Mor

Sue and Alex Ekins

Jagged Globe - Intro to Winter Mountaineering

Will

Today we took the Intro to Winter Mountaineering course to Aonach Mor. The Gondola wasn't running - not a surprise really, it was predicted to be a windy day - so we started our day with a walk. There were also some climbers heading up to the East Face for a climb too. At the end of the day, the climbers said they got down Easy Gully, but didn't climb anything due to poor snow quality. We headed up to Aonach an Nid and found lots of snow. It was snowing with a strong westerly wind, so there was a great deal of snow being transported about. There were patches of slab building, but initially these were easy to spot and avoid. We started the day with building a couple of emergency snow shelters, including a shovel up.

Moving on steeper ground

Mark on steep ground

Sue about to get over the edge

We got onto a little steeper ground, still avoiding the slab patches. When we topped out onto the ridge, we were still able to avoid the scarp slope slab, and new slab on most of the lip.

Climbing over the edge on Aonach Mor from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

The wind picked up and made life exciting for the team - most people reached for their goggles. At the end of a great week, I think people have found new hobbies in indoor climbing, outdoor winter climbing and winter mountaineering.

Other teams were climbing on the Ben, Ed Chard climbed North Gully and Andy Owen climbed Green Gully. There's still a great deal of winter up there to go at.

Turf Walk

Ed abseiling into Easy Gully

The Jagged Globe Snow and Ice Climbing course today headed for Aonach Mor. It was set to be a fantastic day, but still the East Face wasn't too busy. Again Easy Gully was very solid, making for an easy descent. As we got to the bottom of the East Face, the sun had hit the face and the ice started to melt for the couple of hours that the sun was on it. Ed was on Morwind and we opted for Turf Walk (III,4*). Mark Hendry went for Tunnel Vision.

Fred coming up pitch 1 of Turf Walk

It was great to be climbing in the sun - I only wore 3 thin layers, and thin gloves - I think we may have even picked up some colour from the sun - where's the cold, spindrift and suffering - that'll probably be back soon...

Tariq on Turf Walk

Fred and Tariq said that their favourite climb of the week had been Twisting Gully, so next year we'll try some harder mixed climbs, with interesting lines.

Adrian, Tariq, Jim and Fred

It was a great week for the team and a brilliant week for weather and conditions. Things are however now set to change.

Tunnel Vision

Tariq

Today was my first day of the season climbing on the East face of Aonach Mor. I was with Fred and Tariq, on the Snow and Ice, Jagged Globe course. We found Easy Gully in great condition, and the Gully rim was solid. Walking across the bases of the climbs we could easily see the tops of the climbs and saw that many climbs had safe cornice exits (possibly from heavy weekend traffic?). Scott just was just ahead of me at Tunnel Vision, and we both had a great time on the route. The ice was good and the neve was better. This is a great little 1 star climb. Lots of routes were being done today, including Morwind, Left Twin and White Shark.

Fred topping out at the end of Tunnel Vision

The best part of the climb was topping out, pulling over the edge into the sunshine - every day in Lochaber is like this!

Tariq finding some firm neve

Tariq topping out in the sun

Looking over at the sun and Ben Nevis

A spectacular day - they're all like this!

I did have sunglasses in my bag but, I was in the shade for most of the day - in search for the sun again tomorrow..

Winter Skills

I also met Ken and Scott on Aonach an Nid today

Today I was again out with David Barber on day 2 of his 4 day course. We headed for the Gondola, Aonach an Nid and Aonach Mor to take a look at refreshing his winter skills. There were a few groups out here on the hill today - so not quite all on our own. We met Scott, Ken and a team who had climbed up the West Face.

David battling with a cornice

We did a little ropework and had fun with some tricky cornices - Dave was keen to get involved and get some cornice action. This was part way up the ridge at around 1050m. We were later navigating around the plateau, and Easy Gully had a great deal of fresh unstable cornice build up.

Nearly over

The temp did rise quickly in the morning as predicted, followed by rain, and by the end on the day the snow was soft and there was melting evident everywhere, even at the summit.

Sunny Mountaineering

Jagged Globe - Winter Mountaineering

Robert on Aonach Mor

Today we chose to get to the steep snow slopes of Aonach Mor for a little more winter mountaineering fun. We were even treated to sun and another day of brilliant scenery. Work doesn't get much better.

Mountaineering On The Nid

Robert and Nick

Today was day 2 of Nick and Robert's Winter Mountaineering Course with Jagged Globe. We decided to build upon our skills from yesterday, and visit the quick access steep ground of Aonach an Nid from the Nevis Range Gondola. The ground was perfect for us, lots of steep ground to develop footwork, axe and crampon skills with confidence. We eventually got the rope out to do battle with the soft and fluffy slightly corniced edges. This proved to be slightly difficult, but fun. The scenery was stunning all day, but the only downside of this venue is that we were out of the sun for half of the day - the sunglasses slayed in the bag - but it was perhaps the best scenery I've had all season. Let's hope we all need our sunglasses tomorrow - mine are already packed.

Nick

Robert

Nick doing battle with the soft snowy edge

Left Twin On Aonach Mor

A busy day on the East Face - this is the top of Easy Gully

Today Lena and I had a leisurely start and made it to the Nevis Range gondola - heading to Aonach Mor East Face. We had an open mind, but realised that there would be only a few climbs in anything like guide book condition. The East Face was busy, but Easy Gully was very friendly, with no dangerous cornice to worry about and bomber neve to enjoy.

Lena making her way down Easy Gully

We made it down the gully and started to wander along the base of the cliff towards Morwind. We found a team all set to go on Morwind, so we moved on to Left Twin. We had it to ourselves so we climbed it in 4 pitches to share the leading. Pitch 1 was a little steeper than normal, due to less than standard ice build up. There was good ice for screws. The ice/snow was cruddy in places, but this was easily avoidable, and you could keep on the quality ice and neve. The turf was 90% frozen, and seemed bomber during the entire climb - particulary helpful at the exit of the gully at the top (a couple of easy mixed moves), below the final snow slopes.

Looking up pitch 1 of Left Twin III***. The first pitch had a few metres of tech 4 today.

Lena finishing off pitch 1

Looking up Left Twin from the end of the first pitch

Lena starting up Pitch 2 - making a belay in the middle of the photo

Pitch 2 starts off at about grade III, before it rears up a little, to make about tech 4ish (or 4+) today, for the crux.

Looking up at the crux ice

On the crux pitch the ice was good enough for good screw protection, with bomber axe placements all the way, and even some huge ice hooks. It did feel at times like I was back in the Ice Factor, pulling up ice hooks. Fantastic climbing fun.

Looking down at Lena and the next team queuing up. They had just abandoned Typhoon, finding a lack of ice on it, so they traversed right ot join Left Twin at the end of pitch 1.

Lena exiting the gully difficulties - enjoying the frozen turf

Lena making her way to the top - finding the top snow straightforward, and no cornice to worry about

So it was a great day on the East Face, with a large number of routes being climbed - with variable conditions! The turf was generally frozen, the neve was usually first time placements, except a few cruddy places, and the ice was more than climbable in Left Twin - what more could you ask for..... More Snow you say - okay wish granted, it's on its way to Lochaber tonight and tomorrow. What a difference 24hrs can make!

A lack of snow on the lower hills