Minggu, 06 Desember 2015

Spectre In SCNL

Ken setting off, up Spectre V,6**
Yesterday I had a great day of climbing with Ken Applegate. We didn't want to slog in somewhere breaking trail in the deep deep new snow, so Ken suggested Stob Coire nan Lochan, where there are a few options, and he had some info that there may be a track to follow through the snow. All my winter days this season so far seem to have been walking/swimming through deep snow, but I guess this is much more preferable to no snow (aka last year). We hit the coire and decided to go for a short route, that would also not need topping out. Getting in, breaking trail took a little longer than normal. Also, the routes looked like they would be time consuming with a bit of clearing.


Ken chose Spectre, racked up and set off. The pitch took a lot of clearing, but making sense of the guide book, Ken made the belay.

Ken on the 'awkward step'
Ken building the belay
Making my way up to the first belay
The first pitch was awkward in several places, with thin moves and sparse but good gear. 

I'm searching for hooks. Eventually I had to give up expecting to find sinker hooks
Ken asked if I wanted the second pitch. I only led for a couple of metres when I got to the first 'interesting section' with poor hooks and thin feet. I got a bomber hex and pushed on. The pitch was protected, but it did feel bold and run out most of the time.

Above the first awkward section
Spot me trying to keep calm on my first V 6
I made the belay and could chill after my first V,6 lead - brilliant. We abseiled down Scabbard Chinmey, which immediately rose to the top of my new wish list - looking more positive and well protected than Spectre.

Ken finishing pitch 2
Ken ab'ing down Scabbard Chimney

The snow was so deep that there were only a few tracks in/out of the coire. There were a couple of other climbing teams out on Twisting Gully, and Twisting Grooves.

The colours start to change as the sun heads for the horizon
The Ben in the distance
SCNL

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