Scabbard Chimney in SCNL

Neil working hard to get to the base of Scabbard Chimney (V,6***)

After abseiling down Scabbard Chimney (V,6***) the other day, I was well keen to get up to it and have a go. Neil Pope was free and up for a climb, so we set off. We got to the SCNL car park to find 3 other teams already 40 mins up the path with headtorhes - little did we know at this point that they were about to be breaking trail for us - thanks guys! We got to the snow to discover just how deep it was - consistently up to knee level and often up to waist level. In the coire we found the teams fighting/swimming up to Central Grooves and Raeburn's Route. Our route up to Scabbard Chimney was a little less challenging.

Teams working incredibly hard to get to the base of Central Grooves (VII,7****) and Raeburn's Route (IV,4***)

The first pitch started with the short chimney and was a little awkward. The offwidth crack to follow was rejecting my initial attempts so I brought Neil up to give me time to think. My next effort was a little more determined and I found a brilliant hook, which led to finding the nuts on the left wall, which took me to the proper first belay - awesome - that was the pitch I was worried about, hearing that the thin slab, had caused some leaders to fall off!

Neil coming up towards the first belay - finishing the first awkward chimney

After the first short chimney on pitch 1 is this offwidth crack. I was a bit nervous of it, so I belayed at it's base, splitting the pitch into 2. It worked out well after finding a couple of bits of gear and great hooks on the left wall.

Neil arriving at the first belay

The team on the first belay of Central Grooves - 3 people on the hanging stance I think, in the centre of the photo

This is the view up the third pitch (our 4th pitch) from the sentry box belay.

The next pitch to the sentry box was brilliant too, with excellent climbing - a little less technical than the previous pitch.This led to the main event - the pitch in the photo above. The last pitch was initially a little thin, but the many pegs were helpful, and the hooks were deep. Still I found this less technical than the offwidth crack/slab pitch earlier - but all pitches were ***. A fantastic route. Cheers for a great day Neil.

Neil doing the awkward moves to get up this crack to the sentry box belay

Welcome to the sentry box

Neil exiting the difficulties of Scabbard Chimney

Colours are beginning to change on the Aonach Eagach Ridge

2 quick abseils off

Time to pack away, now that it's in the bag. The team on Central Grooves were on pitch 3 with about an hour of daylight left - behind Neil on the cliff in the photo.

Spectre In SCNL

Ken setting off, up Spectre V,6**

Yesterday I had a great day of climbing with Ken Applegate. We didn't want to slog in somewhere breaking trail in the deep deep new snow, so Ken suggested Stob Coire nan Lochan, where there are a few options, and he had some info that there may be a track to follow through the snow. All my winter days this season so far seem to have been walking/swimming through deep snow, but I guess this is much more preferable to no snow (aka last year). We hit the coire and decided to go for a short route, that would also not need topping out. Getting in, breaking trail took a little longer than normal. Also, the routes looked like they would be time consuming with a bit of clearing.

Ken chose Spectre, racked up and set off. The pitch took a lot of clearing, but making sense of the guide book, Ken made the belay.

Ken on the 'awkward step'

Ken building the belay

Making my way up to the first belay

The first pitch was awkward in several places, with thin moves and sparse but good gear. 

I'm searching for hooks. Eventually I had to give up expecting to find sinker hooks

Ken asked if I wanted the second pitch. I only led for a couple of metres when I got to the first 'interesting section' with poor hooks and thin feet. I got a bomber hex and pushed on. The pitch was protected, but it did feel bold and run out most of the time.

Above the first awkward section

Spot me trying to keep calm on my first V 6

I made the belay and could chill after my first V,6 lead - brilliant. We abseiled down Scabbard Chinmey, which immediately rose to the top of my new wish list - looking more positive and well protected than Spectre.

Ken finishing pitch 2

Ken ab'ing down Scabbard Chimney

The snow was so deep that there were only a few tracks in/out of the coire. There were a couple of other climbing teams out on Twisting Gully, and Twisting Grooves.

The colours start to change as the sun heads for the horizon

The Ben in the distance

SCNL

A Day On The Water

Today I was off to update my Paddling Coaching awards - so I was attending the SCA Coaching Matters update day at Firbush on Loch Tay. I had a chance to drive through Glencoe early in the morning, and saw a few of the early climbing teams setting off up towards the higher Glencoe crags. The conditions looked good, light winds, high clouds and low temperatures.

With a van full of paddling kit I kept driving, destined for a day on the water - which was actually a great day. As I drove back through Glencoe, the winterised crags were still there, and many of the climbing teams cars were still there in the laybys as the light faded - hopefully they got winter product.

Loch Tay

Through The Pearly Gates

Julia and Phil on pitch 1 of Pearly Gates

Jagged Globe - Winter Mountaineering

Today I met Julia and Phil on day 2 of their course. They had never climbed with 2 axes before but were up for adventure. We got up to the basin of the SCNL coire and we could just about choose any climb we fancied. People were heading up towards Boomerang Gully, Dorsal Arete, Langsam, NC Gully, Twisting Gully, SC Gully etc - so we went for Pearly Gates (II**) on the summit buttress, slightly up from Langsam. I started pitch 1 just to the left of the true Pearly Gates start because the ice looked good for an ice belay, and it would make the climb a little longer. The 2 screw belay was good, and I headed off to find the 'gates'. We made it to the top in 4 pitches. As I topped out into the sun, I suddenly overheated - the priorities were to make the belay fast, then get the 2 jackets, hat and gloves off - phew! Well done to Julia and Phil for their first winter climb - it was a pretty special day - good company, amazing neve, ice, a new climb for me and the weather !!!

Ice belay - end of pitch 1

Belay at the entrance to the gates

Andy and 2 clients on Dorsal Arete

The start of the last pitch

Phil topping out on the SCNL summit ridge with Ben Nevis behind

Of course we had to go to the summit and get all the normal photos - Buachaille Etive Mor behind

Vicky makes it to the summit and joins the party

SUN !!!!

Pearly Gates in the centre of the photo, on the flank of SCNL

A second climbing up SC Gully on the last pitch

Fun On Dorsal Arete

Adam and Susie on Dorsal Arete

Jagged Globe - Winter Mountaineering

For the last day of the course Adam, Susie and I headed off to Stob Coire nan Lochan to do Dorsal Arete. The day started off with rain (memories of yesterday), and I wondered if I'd have enough gloves for the day, but shortly the rain stopped and by late morning the day had changed and I was just wearing softshell and thin gloves - brilliant. Dorsal Arete was busy, but everybody was sociable and accommodating. Adam and Susie wanted a bit of a challenge and a reason to use their 2 axes so I found the 'back chimney' of the Arete as a good mixed challenge for the team. They helped each other work it out and then moved on to the final mixed buttress to top out. I found some winner hooks to swing on and pull to the top. Adam cleared the ice off the right wall to reveal a tiny front point ledge so he could use a right foot. Everybody topped out happy and buzzing. A great way to finish the week. Thanks for great company, and a laugh all the way.

Adam popping around the corner to face the short chimney

Whilst Adam is tackling the chimney, Susie pops around the corner

Adam enjoying the struggle

Adam coaches Susie for the final move

Phew - done

Nice. Adele Pennington on her way to the chimney

Adam does the final moves up the buttress to the top. Adele and Susie look on

Susie's turn

Susie looking for the hooks

A great day for all three of us