Scabbard Chimney in SCNL

Neil working hard to get to the base of Scabbard Chimney (V,6***)

After abseiling down Scabbard Chimney (V,6***) the other day, I was well keen to get up to it and have a go. Neil Pope was free and up for a climb, so we set off. We got to the SCNL car park to find 3 other teams already 40 mins up the path with headtorhes - little did we know at this point that they were about to be breaking trail for us - thanks guys! We got to the snow to discover just how deep it was - consistently up to knee level and often up to waist level. In the coire we found the teams fighting/swimming up to Central Grooves and Raeburn's Route. Our route up to Scabbard Chimney was a little less challenging.

Teams working incredibly hard to get to the base of Central Grooves (VII,7****) and Raeburn's Route (IV,4***)

The first pitch started with the short chimney and was a little awkward. The offwidth crack to follow was rejecting my initial attempts so I brought Neil up to give me time to think. My next effort was a little more determined and I found a brilliant hook, which led to finding the nuts on the left wall, which took me to the proper first belay - awesome - that was the pitch I was worried about, hearing that the thin slab, had caused some leaders to fall off!

Neil coming up towards the first belay - finishing the first awkward chimney

After the first short chimney on pitch 1 is this offwidth crack. I was a bit nervous of it, so I belayed at it's base, splitting the pitch into 2. It worked out well after finding a couple of bits of gear and great hooks on the left wall.

Neil arriving at the first belay

The team on the first belay of Central Grooves - 3 people on the hanging stance I think, in the centre of the photo

This is the view up the third pitch (our 4th pitch) from the sentry box belay.

The next pitch to the sentry box was brilliant too, with excellent climbing - a little less technical than the previous pitch.This led to the main event - the pitch in the photo above. The last pitch was initially a little thin, but the many pegs were helpful, and the hooks were deep. Still I found this less technical than the offwidth crack/slab pitch earlier - but all pitches were ***. A fantastic route. Cheers for a great day Neil.

Neil doing the awkward moves to get up this crack to the sentry box belay

Welcome to the sentry box

Neil exiting the difficulties of Scabbard Chimney

Colours are beginning to change on the Aonach Eagach Ridge

2 quick abseils off

Time to pack away, now that it's in the bag. The team on Central Grooves were on pitch 3 with about an hour of daylight left - behind Neil on the cliff in the photo.

Busy Winter Venue

Driving to Aviemore from Fort William

So Matt Leggett's last day, before heading down to the balmy 13 degree temperatures of Oxford on Monday. We chose the northern corries again, but the drive there was very exciting as you can imagine with all the snow.

Walking in to Coire an t-Sneachda with Matt and LenaWe didn't know what to climb as a 3, but knew we didn't want to be hanging around in a queue in the cold winds, so we wanted anything that was free.

Looking over at The Seam and Invernookie, I think I could see 6 teams at one point, lots of them queueing. See the people at the bottom, centre on the photo.

There were queues everywhere. We had to change our plans many times as we kept seeing more queues developing. This is Mess of Pottage above.

In the end we found a grade II and sometimes III line up the RHS of the Pottage starting on the Slant. Good fun and sociable.

Walking off

There we go, my van now has nameing on it - but it doeasn't look too permanent and may not last too long...

Another awesome day of fun in the snow.

Wet And Windy Nav Assessment

It's definitely not winter on Buachaille Etive Mor

Assessment day at the Uni again, but this time it was Navigation for the First Year Degree Students. I was with Vlada, David, Alan and John. The weather was not inviting to say the least - it seemed to be constantly driving heavy rain, in gusting winds, and a good wind chill thrown in - good hill conditions to test their navigation and their personal organisation.  When we got to the Buachaille, there was clearly no snow on it, but when Glencoe Mountain ski resort became visible, there was a little white dusting at the top.

The team on the way up to the Devil's Staircase

With smiles and a good spirit, we got on with the day, and everybody did well showing their nav skills. It was a good day to test gloves, and my recent £4.50 yellow leather gloves lasted a good 3 hours (and made my hands yellow too!).

Alan and John discussing the nav leg

David and Vlada happy to be in the bothy shelter

Bothy shelters are always a winner, and it was the first time in a shelter for most of the team - a quick way to bring the smiles back.

A happy wet team heading back to a warm bus

Congratulations everybody for sticking with it in a less than friendly day.

A Day On The Water

Today I was off to update my Paddling Coaching awards - so I was attending the SCA Coaching Matters update day at Firbush on Loch Tay. I had a chance to drive through Glencoe early in the morning, and saw a few of the early climbing teams setting off up towards the higher Glencoe crags. The conditions looked good, light winds, high clouds and low temperatures.

With a van full of paddling kit I kept driving, destined for a day on the water - which was actually a great day. As I drove back through Glencoe, the winterised crags were still there, and many of the climbing teams cars were still there in the laybys as the light faded - hopefully they got winter product.

Loch Tay

Ledge Route In The Sun

Moving well up Ledge Route

Today I was working for the WHC and Ben and I took the second year group up Ledge route to look at their decision making, judgement and leadership skills on steep ground. It was one of those days on Ben Nevis that dreams are made of - the weather was perfect and the views were sensational.

A climber in Tower Gap, crossing to the other side

I think it was Mike Pescod that we saw quickly jumping across the Tower Gap high on Tower Ridge.

The climbers has crossed Tower Gap and are moving up towards the top of Tower Ridge

A minute or so later, Mike was standing at the top with his client, about to have their lunch with a perfect view of the highlands.

The new cairn at the top of Number 4 Gully

We met the builder of the new Cairn at the top of Number 4 Gully. He told us the secrets of how he built the cairn, especially how he got that enormous rock onto the top - by himself!!!

The snowy top of the Ben today

There is a little snow on the summit of the Ben at the moment. Tower Ridge was clear of snow from what I could see. It was a brilliant day. It was the first day on the North Face of the Ben for most of the group, and the first time on the top for at least one of the group - a winning day for all of us.

A Quick Paddle

The mist clears to reveal Ben Nevis in the background

Working for Outward Bound today Matt led a morning paddle across Loch Eil. The thick sea level morning mist slowly cleared and revealed the Ben in the distance. I had my winter tyres fitted yesterday, so middle autumn is here and winter is in sight. This morning, most of us had our first morning of scraping ice off our windows - happy days of snow and ice are ahead ...

A clear view of the autumnal Ben Nevis

Point 5 Gully

We got to the CIC a bit late, we could see teams on Orion Direct, Minus 3, Minus 1 and Zero

Many teams had already gone up Point 5, and teams on Observatory Buttress - Ordinary Route

Several teams were on Hadrians

A bit late in the morning - I'm on pitch 1 on Point 5 (the queues had gone and there was nobody behind us). The climb is fairly well banked out, so pitch 1 was shorter than it has been in the past. The climb is incredibly hooked and stepped at the moment. The ice is thick - so this climb will be here for a while :)

Pitch 2, fun, fun, fun

Lena sets off on the Rogue pitch as spindrift comes down

Lena cruising up the steep pitch

Lena on one of the upper pitches

Lena topping out onto the summit plateau

A quiet summit - of course we had to climb ontop on the shelter as well to complete our route :)

Fun On Dorsal Arete

Adam and Susie on Dorsal Arete

Jagged Globe - Winter Mountaineering

For the last day of the course Adam, Susie and I headed off to Stob Coire nan Lochan to do Dorsal Arete. The day started off with rain (memories of yesterday), and I wondered if I'd have enough gloves for the day, but shortly the rain stopped and by late morning the day had changed and I was just wearing softshell and thin gloves - brilliant. Dorsal Arete was busy, but everybody was sociable and accommodating. Adam and Susie wanted a bit of a challenge and a reason to use their 2 axes so I found the 'back chimney' of the Arete as a good mixed challenge for the team. They helped each other work it out and then moved on to the final mixed buttress to top out. I found some winner hooks to swing on and pull to the top. Adam cleared the ice off the right wall to reveal a tiny front point ledge so he could use a right foot. Everybody topped out happy and buzzing. A great way to finish the week. Thanks for great company, and a laugh all the way.

Adam popping around the corner to face the short chimney

Whilst Adam is tackling the chimney, Susie pops around the corner

Adam enjoying the struggle

Adam coaches Susie for the final move

Phew - done

Nice. Adele Pennington on her way to the chimney

Adam does the final moves up the buttress to the top. Adele and Susie look on

Susie's turn

Susie looking for the hooks

A great day for all three of us