Raeburn's Route In SCNL

Lena approaching Raeburn's Route (IV,4***) - we can see that there are 2 teams already on it.

The forecast was a little poor today but Lena and I wanted to finish the weekend off with a climb, so we headed back to Stob Coire nan Lochan to take a look. At the carpark, we could see headtorches just disappearing from sight up the valley - good news for us - we could follow their track in through the deep snow. We got to the Coire and could see that there were 2 teams on Raeburn's Route (IV,4***) - which was our plan too. The snow up to the route was still hard work to wade through - up to our knees and waist. We eventually got to the route, and decided to go round the corner and up NC Gully, to skip ahead of the 2 teams on the initial pitch. This did get us ahead of the crowd, but I was rewarded by a big job of working my way through the deep snow on the crux pitch which made it incredibly awkward, both to find the gear and to find rock to pull on! The turf was frozen on the upper section of the climb, but apparently not completely so, on the lower section. The snow was more consolidated than the other day - people were happily climbing NC Gully today. I felt pretty lucky to get a route done today - the weather felt against us, and the snow was deep and hard work. The leader of the next team to the top after us had come from Edinburgh for the day, and his partner and the other team were from Leeds - driving back tonight!

Lena belayed at the 'Tower'

Lena climbing through the poor visibility

Lena leading to the top

Occasionally there were stunnig views

On my way to the top

The top of Raeburn's Route on 9th Dec 2012 from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Scabbard Chimney in SCNL

Neil working hard to get to the base of Scabbard Chimney (V,6***)

After abseiling down Scabbard Chimney (V,6***) the other day, I was well keen to get up to it and have a go. Neil Pope was free and up for a climb, so we set off. We got to the SCNL car park to find 3 other teams already 40 mins up the path with headtorhes - little did we know at this point that they were about to be breaking trail for us - thanks guys! We got to the snow to discover just how deep it was - consistently up to knee level and often up to waist level. In the coire we found the teams fighting/swimming up to Central Grooves and Raeburn's Route. Our route up to Scabbard Chimney was a little less challenging.

Teams working incredibly hard to get to the base of Central Grooves (VII,7****) and Raeburn's Route (IV,4***)

The first pitch started with the short chimney and was a little awkward. The offwidth crack to follow was rejecting my initial attempts so I brought Neil up to give me time to think. My next effort was a little more determined and I found a brilliant hook, which led to finding the nuts on the left wall, which took me to the proper first belay - awesome - that was the pitch I was worried about, hearing that the thin slab, had caused some leaders to fall off!

Neil coming up towards the first belay - finishing the first awkward chimney

After the first short chimney on pitch 1 is this offwidth crack. I was a bit nervous of it, so I belayed at it's base, splitting the pitch into 2. It worked out well after finding a couple of bits of gear and great hooks on the left wall.

Neil arriving at the first belay

The team on the first belay of Central Grooves - 3 people on the hanging stance I think, in the centre of the photo

This is the view up the third pitch (our 4th pitch) from the sentry box belay.

The next pitch to the sentry box was brilliant too, with excellent climbing - a little less technical than the previous pitch.This led to the main event - the pitch in the photo above. The last pitch was initially a little thin, but the many pegs were helpful, and the hooks were deep. Still I found this less technical than the offwidth crack/slab pitch earlier - but all pitches were ***. A fantastic route. Cheers for a great day Neil.

Neil doing the awkward moves to get up this crack to the sentry box belay

Welcome to the sentry box

Neil exiting the difficulties of Scabbard Chimney

Colours are beginning to change on the Aonach Eagach Ridge

2 quick abseils off

Time to pack away, now that it's in the bag. The team on Central Grooves were on pitch 3 with about an hour of daylight left - behind Neil on the cliff in the photo.

Sron na Lairig

Sron na Lairig

In winter Sron na Lairig is a great 300m II***. In summer it is still a fun grade II/III scramble (on good rock, but with lots of grassy interludes), in awesome scenic surroundings. Today we had really good dry conditions with only a little wind and lots of atmospheric swirling cloud.

Finding a way up the slab on the RHS to pass a steep band to access the broad platform.

There are initially lots of variations to be had on the route, but often the many crampon marks showed the most exciting line.

No sport climbing bolts to clip on this route - so here's the set of nuts on wire again..

Lots of good quality clean and dry rock today.

We were the only people on the route today, but not the only in the valley - even on a quiet Tuesday there were others about.

The 'Bad Step', which needs negotiation on the NE ridge from Stob Coire Sgreamhach (the high point above) to Beinn Fhada (starting on the RHS above, and below).

Beinn Fhada above with the wind sweeping it's way past.

A mini rocky point which pulls down to a narrow neck - easy with the lack of wind today.

Towards the end of all the fun, with Lairig Eilde behind, and the Allt Lairig Eilde at it's base.

All to soon it's all over, and the day turns into a hill walk back to the road.

A Day On The Water

Today I was off to update my Paddling Coaching awards - so I was attending the SCA Coaching Matters update day at Firbush on Loch Tay. I had a chance to drive through Glencoe early in the morning, and saw a few of the early climbing teams setting off up towards the higher Glencoe crags. The conditions looked good, light winds, high clouds and low temperatures.

With a van full of paddling kit I kept driving, destined for a day on the water - which was actually a great day. As I drove back through Glencoe, the winterised crags were still there, and many of the climbing teams cars were still there in the laybys as the light faded - hopefully they got winter product.

Loch Tay

A Day In Glencoe

Lost Valley and Beinn Fhada behind Andrew and Sean

Today I was with the First year group from the Fort William Uni, and we headed off to Glencoe for a mountain day, in again brilliant weather. Just another day of great weather in the Highlands! We went up Lost Valley - and the autumnal colours with superb visibility were beautiful. The four, Sean, Linsay, Daniel and Andrew proved to be fit, strong and determined. Linsay and Sean proved to be carrying injuries that gave them a great deal of pain. It's rare to see people push on through such pain, and at the same time not complain or be negative. They were both inspirational today.

Andrew and Sean with Bidean nam Bian behind

It did try to snow at one point today, but it never really materialised - so just another great Autumn day.

Linsay (carefully hiding her injury) and Andrew on their way down off Stob Coire nan Lochan

Rope Skills

Walking into awful weather, strong gusting winds and driving rain...

I was working for UHI at the WHC on the ATM course with the second years. They opted for a little ropework today, rather than navigation - so off we go into the bad weather for an adventure in Glencoe.

The team looking after each other on slippery wet rock.

Finally, down we go... Everybody was lowered off, to learn how to lower people but also to experience being lowered rather than being in control with an abseil, so they'll have empathy when they lower their future clients...

Curved Ridge

Lena finding Curved Ridge

A day off, so into the hills for something to do on a damp day - scrambling is the answer. A classic - Curved Ridge, always a winner.

The day started with rain, and mist, but this wasn't forecast to stay.

Eventually the sun did come out and the waterproofs could go away, and even the rock dried out, another great day in the hills. The crouds have died out a little, but still Glencoe seemed busy with walkers and tourists...

Aonach Eagach In The Mist

Andrew and Anna Martindale enjoying the ridge

Working for - Abacus Mountaineering, Coaching and Guiding

When I met Andrew and Anna this morning in the rain, in Glencoe, they told me about their last 3 days in great sunny weather climbing munros - today the weather had changed - rain, cloud, no sun! They were up for the adventure of the Aoanch Eagach ridge, taking in the munros along the way so we set off, into more rain. Eventually I had to give up and put my waterproofs on - oh well, I hadn't worn them for a while. We'd started early, so initially we had the ridge to ourselves, but half way through we saw what I took to be a coach load of people on the top of Am Bodach. Eventually, most of them turned back the way they had come. I think in the end there were about 2 teams after us. We didn't get the sun, but we did get atmosphere, by the bucket. The ridge has inspired Andrew and Anna to take on more scrambling adventures. Next year I think they'll head to Skye for the munros and the ridge.

At last a little of the ridge reveals itself

As the morning goes on the rain stops and some visibility comes and goes

After the rain the rock starts to dry a little

Andrew and Anna opt for all the little scrambling bits and pieces - Anna gets pretty slick at downclimbing