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Minggu, 08 November 2015

Sron na Lairig

Sron na Lairig

In winter Sron na Lairig is a great 300m II***. In summer it is still a fun grade II/III scramble (on good rock, but with lots of grassy interludes), in awesome scenic surroundings. Today we had really good dry conditions with only a little wind and lots of atmospheric swirling cloud.

Finding a way up the slab on the RHS to pass a steep band to access the broad platform.

There are initially lots of variations to be had on the route, but often the many crampon marks showed the most exciting line.

No sport climbing bolts to clip on this route - so here's the set of nuts on wire again..

Lots of good quality clean and dry rock today.

We were the only people on the route today, but not the only in the valley - even on a quiet Tuesday there were others about.

The 'Bad Step', which needs negotiation on the NE ridge from Stob Coire Sgreamhach (the high point above) to Beinn Fhada (starting on the RHS above, and below).

Beinn Fhada above with the wind sweeping it's way past.

A mini rocky point which pulls down to a narrow neck - easy with the lack of wind today.

Towards the end of all the fun, with Lairig Eilde behind, and the Allt Lairig Eilde at it's base.

All to soon it's all over, and the day turns into a hill walk back to the road.

Jumat, 13 Februari 2015

Glencoe

Looking down into Lost Valley and Glencoe

I was out for a walk today with Lena in Glencoe. We headed up Lost Valley towards the Minor Buttress. There were a lot of people about, being a half term week. The snow was soft all the way to the summits and the black cliffs were dripping. There was hardly any wind and we didn't see any of the forecast drizzle.

Align CentreLost Valley Minor Buttress - Bidean Nam Bian/East

We were heading for Right-hand Gully (I/II), to the side of the Lost Valley Minor Buttress. There are now only bits and pieces of ice hanging onto the icy lines.

Align CentreLooking East towards Stob Coire Sgreamhach, and the Buachailles beyond

We walked up to Bidean Nam Bian in near zero wind with an excellent view of Loch Etive.

Church Door Buttress is black and wet

We took a look in Central Gully to add interest to our walk to Glencoe. The Buttresses are black and almost ice free. We found one team going up Central Gully.

Diamond and Church Door Buttresses - Bidean Nam Bian/West

Stob Coire Nam Beith - showing Central Gully and Deep-Cut Chimney

We found ice attempting to hang in there on Stob Coire Nam Beith on Central Gully and Deep-Cut Chimney.

The best climbing is definitely on the Ben at the moment with people on climbs such as Cascade, Green, No3 Gully Buttress, Thompson's and Ledge today (among others). There were also careful climbing teams out there on the East Face of Aonach Mor.

Lena walking into Glencoe

Senin, 08 Maret 2010

Lost Valley, Mountaineering Day 1

Dani testing out the bucket seat

Paul trying more traditional abseiling

Paul teaching Dani to abseil


Posing for the camera


I met Paul and Dani, who have booked on a Mountaineering course for the week with Abacus Mountaineering. We headed for the Lost Valley in Glencoe for a great venue for learning the basics. We covered safe travel with and without crampons, use of axe, self belay, step cutting, moving over steep ground, dynamic belaying, bucket seats, buried axes, snow bollards, abseiling, short roping, short pitching, up and down - all set up for a week of adventure...