Tower Scoop

Today (Tuesday) I was working for Jagged Globe alongside Ed Chard on their Snow and Ice Climbing Course. We went to take a look at the Ben. When we got to the CIC hut, the wind was much stronger than we had expected and the gusts were quite powerful. We could see quite a lot of snow moving about and building in some areas. We decided to go into Observatory Gully, with a view to doing Tower Scoop (III**). We found the snow to be patched with windslab, but as we gained height the patches coalesced, but with careful route choice a safe route was possible close to the Scoop. The snow here was a tricky again, so we pitched up to the rock, and enjoyed 2 pitches on the Scoop. Topping out the neve was solid. The wind at this point was regularly gusting, and the snow into Tower Gully looked dubious so we decided to go down Observatory Gully instead. This was only a short ice climb but a great day out.

The video is poor quality but gives an idea that the ice is building. Point 5 looks terrific..

A quick look around Observatory Gully on the way to Tower Scoop from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

CIC Ice

Looking up at CIC ice falls, Carn Dearg Buttress to Castle Ridge

Jagged Globe - Winter Mountaineering

Today Jan and Jeff were keen to take time to learn a little about ice climbing and more specifically, alternately leading themselves up ice, placing protection and making belays. We headed up towards the Ben and found the CIC icefalls looking good, and currently being climbed in many places. The Gulch has a lot of solid ice and can be climbed from about grade 0.5 up to about IV. The day was one of the best on the Ben for a while, and yet it was pretty quiet. One reason for this was the Ben track. Our minibus didn't make it. I think you need 4 winter tyres or a 4x4 or both at the moment - or a slightly longer walk from lower down, like us today. Lots of ice routes around CIC were being climbed today as well as Tower Ridge, Number 5 gully and Ledge Route.

Jan and Jeff lead a few pitches doing all the work themselves and finally abseiled off an ice abseil to finish one of their first independent leads. Well done.

CIC ice fall

Number 2 Gully, Comb, Number 3 Gully Buttress

Falls to the RHS of the main fall. All climbed today

Further right

Ice around the approach to Castle Ridge

Compression Crack

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Waterfall Gully

Waterfall Gully

Point 5 Gully

Number 3 Gully and Creag Coire Na Ciste

Jeff placing screws into thick solid ice

CIC Gulch Ice

Jeff making his way up towards his ice belay

Ice fall below Number 5 Gully, and the start of the Curtain