Central Gully Right-Hand, Hook Fest

On the approach to Central Gully Right-Hand

Jagged Globe - Snow and Ice Climbing

Today Ian, Catherine and I headed to Ben Nevis to try some grade IV ice, after their taste of Grade IV mixed yesterday. We chose Central Gully Right-Hand, with no-body on it, although there weren't many teams about - several teams on the Orion Face, teams on the Minus face (Gaz and Alistair on Minus 2), teams on Green, No. 3 Gully Buttress, Ledge, Tower and a team on Central Gully in front of us. On the main pitch itself the climbing was fantastic and every axe placement sank into a deep hook - which made it a path. Where an axe placement had to be made the ice was found to be a little brittle. A great climb.

The last of the 3 pitches to get to the base of Central Gully Right-Hand

A team on Central Gully (III)

Ian after the initial steep section

Ian finding those hooks

Ian working on his footwork

Catherine Crux from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Catherine about to finish

Ian as a bit of snow comes in

Ian - last pitch from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Ice On Stob Coire Nam Beith

Tony coming up our last pitch

Ed Chard

Ed Chard

I joined Jagged Globe today. Ed Chard was taking out Tony for a day of guiding, so we had an instructor ratio of 2:1 ! Looking for ice, but not exposed to the winds high up, we decided to head for Aonach Dubh, West Face and Stob Coire Nam Beith. We passed No. 6 Gully on the West face, and from across the valley, could see that it wasn't safe to climb. A massive amount of melting has happened in the last 48 hours and especially the last 24 hours. The stream has swollen hughly and is not safely passable in most places without getting a boot full of water, or being swept away. At the end of the day, No. 6 Gully had virtually melted off and was absolutely unclimeable - it was now a waterfall again. Matt and I were lucky to get the last climb yesterday.

Moving up to take a look at Central Gully on Stob Coire Nam Beith - again the entire route was missing or unclimable. The ice where I put my first belay ice screw yesterday (22cm screw) had completely melted and become black rock !
We climbed 2 pitches on the ice left of the direct Central Gully start. PYB also had the same idea - but for bottom roping.

The North Westerly and Northerly winds will continue, and the temp will drop overnight and tomorrow. The freezing level will initially be low down at about 450m. It was 8.3C on Aonach Mor today at 11am, but is already down to -2.3C (5pm). It's forecast to be -5C at the summit of the Ben tomorrow am. Good news to complete this thaw freeze cycle.

Central Gully, Stob Coire Nam Beith, North Face

Stob Coire Nam Beith, North Face. Central Gully is virtually in the centre of the shot, and follows the line is ice up. Deep Cut Chimney is out of condition and can be seen slightly to the right.
Matt Leggett found the small snow house below the North Face

Matt finding some good ice at last

On the crux pitch, the ice was mostly non existent. It became a mixed extravaganza. The easiest way on this occasion was through the chock stones, rather than over! But no space for a bag - that was towed behind! Great fun... I don't think Matt apprecaited having to follow this line!

After our morning fun on No. 6 Gully, on Aonach Dubh, West Face, we decided to extend our day and have a look on the North Face of Stob Coire Nam Beith, hoping to find something hanging in there. We looked at Deep Cut Chimney, hoping it would go, but decided to go for the ice to the side on Central Gully (IV, 4 ***). From the ground we could see the poor quality ice (a gap) on pitch 3, but decided to go for it anyway. The mixed gap proved to be the excitement of the day.

We were still good for time so pushed for the Stob Coire Nam Beith summit, and were still back to the car just after 4pm.

We ate at Clacaig Inn. Matt and Sam emigrate to Papua New Guinea next week. Best wishes to them both.

Pen Y Fan Snow & Climbing Conditions

The mini ridge (II) between the Far Right and Near Right Gully

The East Face (popularly called the North Face) of Pen y Fan started off quiet on New Year's Day. But soon by early morning, there were many keen climbers looking for fun climbing conditions. Several teams headed for Central Gully (III) taking slightly different lines in the upper sections. One team is shown in the video. Other climbers spread out over the other gullies and ridges. My first climb was the ridge between the 2 right hand side gullies.

The ground was frozen, but unfortunately it was frozen without much water content, so there was lots of grass and moss covered in powder topped off with an icy crust. The rock was fully rimed up though. We're still waiting for the fabled South Wales ice climbs to come into condition.

Best wishes everybody for 2010, and safe climbing..

Pen -Y-Fan, Central Gully

I'd had a fattening Christmas and hadn't been watching the weather. I was tipped off about the approach of snow - so quickly made it back to South Wales from England, packed a bag and met up with Ed Abbley. We wanted ice (doesn't everybody). We were disappointed not to find Nirvana - 'roadside ice'. The temp at 400m was still 1 degree C. In fact it was positively warm. So Ed Abbley and I set off for the Pen-Y-Fan North Face (actually E facing) t0 try a little mixed. We were pleased to find the temperature dropping and it reached freezing at about 600m (at last). On the ridges and summits the wind was strong and was moving the old and new snow about. We found Central Gully - and I instantly wished for an ice screw or 2 (left in the car at road side), at last we found ice. The turf was frozen (just), and there was a huge amount of rime on the rocks. It was difficult to get the camera out most of the time (or it was frozen), so I missed all the action. On the way down we found masses of sledge tracks, and we wondered who had been having the most fun. Roll on the winter...

Take care with your climbing everybody - 2 people died on the Ben this morning, tragic news. Let's all have a safe winter season...