I was last on the East Face of Aonach Mor on the 7th March - the snow has changed a lot since then. It is much deeper, and there are huge fragile cornices which have started to fall or sag over the last few days
Morwind and Left Twin have been climbed popularly this season due to the commonly safe exits, so today I wanted to climb Left Twin. I investigated the exit to make a decision and found enormous unstable cornices. The one above is above Morwind and has already sagged, and was visibly dripping. There were also large cornices above Tunnel Vision making it unsafe to climb.
What can you do on a warm windy day. The wind was forecast to be SW 30-40 gusting 65mph, and it definitely felt it on the walk up to the top of the East Face. I wanted to climb Left Twin, and knew it was climbed by several teams yesterday - even though the ice was reported to be in poor shape, cruddy and unable to support many ice screws. The temperatures had risen today with freezing levels well above the summits. The huge cornices above the climbs looked unstable, soft, and were visibly dripping. Looking down to the East towards the Lochan there was debris from at least 3 recent avalanches (one massive one reaching the Lochan), probably triggered by cornice collapse. Perhaps some of the remaining unstable cornices will fall off today and tomorrow. A hasty retreat was called for today - although the only other climbing team around reached a different decision and was about to venture down into East Gully!
Morwind and Left Twin have been climbed popularly this season due to the commonly safe exits, so today I wanted to climb Left Twin. I investigated the exit to make a decision and found enormous unstable cornices. The one above is above Morwind and has already sagged, and was visibly dripping. There were also large cornices above Tunnel Vision making it unsafe to climb.
This is behind the sagging cornice. The cornice exactly below my abseil post had already fallen
Cornices further over above Right Twin and other climbs to the RHS
What can you do on a warm windy day. The wind was forecast to be SW 30-40 gusting 65mph, and it definitely felt it on the walk up to the top of the East Face. I wanted to climb Left Twin, and knew it was climbed by several teams yesterday - even though the ice was reported to be in poor shape, cruddy and unable to support many ice screws. The temperatures had risen today with freezing levels well above the summits. The huge cornices above the climbs looked unstable, soft, and were visibly dripping. Looking down to the East towards the Lochan there was debris from at least 3 recent avalanches (one massive one reaching the Lochan), probably triggered by cornice collapse. Perhaps some of the remaining unstable cornices will fall off today and tomorrow. A hasty retreat was called for today - although the only other climbing team around reached a different decision and was about to venture down into East Gully!
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