What can you do on a warm windy day. The wind was forecast to be SW 30-40 gusting 65mph, and it definitely felt it on the walk up to the top of the East Face. I wanted to climb Left Twin, and knew it was climbed by several teams yesterday - even though the ice was reported to be in poor shape, cruddy and unable to support many ice screws. The temperatures had risen today with freezing levels well above the summits. The huge cornices above the climbs looked unstable, soft, and were visibly dripping. Looking down to the East towards the Lochan there was debris from at least 3 recent avalanches (one massive one reaching the Lochan), probably triggered by cornice collapse. Perhaps some of the remaining unstable cornices will fall off today and tomorrow. A hasty retreat was called for today - although the only other climbing team around reached a different decision and was about to venture down into East Gully!
Rabu, 17 Maret 2010
Aonach Mor, East Face, Left Twin?
What can you do on a warm windy day. The wind was forecast to be SW 30-40 gusting 65mph, and it definitely felt it on the walk up to the top of the East Face. I wanted to climb Left Twin, and knew it was climbed by several teams yesterday - even though the ice was reported to be in poor shape, cruddy and unable to support many ice screws. The temperatures had risen today with freezing levels well above the summits. The huge cornices above the climbs looked unstable, soft, and were visibly dripping. Looking down to the East towards the Lochan there was debris from at least 3 recent avalanches (one massive one reaching the Lochan), probably triggered by cornice collapse. Perhaps some of the remaining unstable cornices will fall off today and tomorrow. A hasty retreat was called for today - although the only other climbing team around reached a different decision and was about to venture down into East Gully!
Label:
aoanch mor,
cornice,
cornices,
East Face,
Left twin,
Lochan,
Morwind,
Tunnel Vision
Langganan:
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