Eagle Ridge in the sun sun sun

Phew, I've been looking forward to the weather improving again and yesterday was a great day!

Stuart had long wanted to climb Eagle Ridge (S/HS****) so yesterday we headed up to Lochnagar with a clear objective.

Eagle Ridge (S/HS****).

There's still some snow holding on in the corrie in the gullies but I expect with the rate it was melting the patches won't last too much longer.  We started climbing at 11am with Stuart setting off on the lead for the first pitch which was surprisingly dry!  Linking the guide book pitches one and two together, and a prompt lead by myself we made good progress and found ourselves at mid height on the route by midday.

Stuart placing gear on pitch 1.

Reaching the crest mid way up Eagle Ridge.

Pushing through the mid sections that provide some obstacles in between the nice comfortable corner climbing or airy aretes; the short steep walls made sure you were still concentrating.

Tackling the first wall.

Moving towards the 'sentry box'.

The second wall.

The sun kept shining illuminating every pitch that appeared over the crest of the ridge but keeping the corner pitches in the shade.  We topped out at 2pm and with a short walk we enjoyed our lunch at the summit mound out of the wind.

The final pitch up a sunny slab.

Even though I have climbed Eagle Ridge a number of times it had been almost two years since I had been on it.  It still throws some surprises your way no matter what you remember.

A small panorama from the Lochnagar summit.

A likely story

Yesterday I ventured up to the Dubh Loch with Derek for some climbing.  The weather was chiller than previous weekends so we opted for Eagles Rock and 'A Likely Story' which is a nice south facing HVS.

'A Likely Story' Crag - Eagles Rock.

Throughout the day clouds threatened but the few spits of rain never amounted to much and the sun even came out to play from time to time.

Derek wondering what he's got himself into...

Derek far off on pitch one.

Chalking up before the move.

Approaching the thin crack.

A team on Mousetrap (VS***) (photo taken from Eagles Rock).

There weren't many folks around up that way; one team on Mouse Trap (VS) on the Dubh Loch crag and some walkers over Broad Cairn direction.

Pitch two of A Likely Story (HVS***).

Derek making the moves through the tricky wall (difficult to see in the photo but it is there).

Rock over.

'Yusss!'

A Likely Story gives a nice angled climb with some more bold sections of almost featureless granite slabs (which Derek enjoyed thoroughly!).

Pith three.

Placing vital gear.

The route takes some of the easiest climbing between the overlaps where possible and keeping a few secrets at points until you're making the move.

Derek making the last moves of the route.

Creag an Dubh Loch from the top of A Likely Story.

Gear for Sale!

I have had a clear out of sorts and am looking to sell some older kit that I do not use.

Varied condition and age (see jpeg below).  If you want any more info please get in touch.

The return to Meikle Partans

I met up with Ben and Sarah after work last night and headed to Meikle Partans for the second time in as many days. Its a great wee crag with plenty of room to walk about at the bottom as well as easy access compared to some of the other sea cliffs.

Ben got in two leads a Hard Severe and a Very Severe with a 4c move. Sarah followed him up and led Jug Wall (Diff) to help get to grips with gear placements and anchors.

The har came in around 9.30 so we made a quick exit back to the car and headed for home. Now that the clouds are back it doesn't feel so bad being back indoors. Having said that Alan Halewood is coming over to run an SPA training course for some of the staff at Transition on Thursday... Lets hope the weather stays nice!

Gold Training

Some of this food was recommended - and some not. I might throw the Haribo in at the last minute - exped comfort food! I'm always amazed at what luxury items the girls take. This time my luxury items of choice are flip flops and a towel to have a good wash every day.

Today I was working in Aberdeen for Alison Culshaw on a Gold Duke of Edinburgh Training day - prepping for the training Gold 4 day Exped going out tomorrow. The girls are mostly from Albyn and St. Margarets Schools in Aberdeen. After doing their Bronze and Silver awards, the girls seem pretty savvy with expeditions - so hopes are high for a smooth training exped. The temperatures are down, so out come the warm clothes again (but ever optimistic, I'm keeping the suncream and sunshades handy - and unfortunatley the midge net).

A Walk Up The Ben

Today I was working for Abacus Mountaineering and I was walking with 4 Belgians up Ben Nevis. They had just completed most of the West Highland way, and wanted to finish this stage of their holiday with a trip up the Ben. They had exceptional weather for their week of walking, but unfortunately on Thursday, the day started with rain - and carried on like that! The views were poor to non existant - these few shots were taken in the few glimpses that came our way.


We managed to get to the top after 5 hours, after starting at about 9am.


After a continental style picnic at the top, at 2.30pm we set off down again - reaching the car park at about 6.30pm. Everybody was happy, and a little tired by now. They set off to have a meal in town and prep for their jounrney home on Friday.


I packed a few bags and set off to Aberdeen in the evening to meet Alison for the next week of work. On the way past I took this photo of the Ben - with more visibility than I had seen all day....

Getting back on the rock: Meikle Partans

Sunday gave us another fine day of sun and at times a nice cool, light breeze. I was out with Patrick; a client that had been out with me some time ago and was keen to get back into regular climbing with a view to undertaking the Single Pitch Award (SPA) scheme.

I began the day by leading Bridge (VS) for Patrick to second and get to grips again with the gear and using it in different situations.

After some chatting and mock set ups of anchors it was Patricks' turn to get on the lead. He made great progress on Constellation (S) with excellent gear placements, climbing and ability.

With a little more work on anchor setup and throwing in some more examples of the different possibilities it was perfect timing for Sam to arrive; and that she did. I had invited her along to get on the other end of Patricks' rope so that i could spend time with him at the top of the climbs to help with the belay stances.

Patrick placing gear and making good progress on Dungo (HS).

Sam following up Dungo.

The picture above is Patrick nearing the top of his next climb Epistrophe (VS) which was a good lead with only the top moves causing any issues.

Patrick also got the chance to use a Petzl 'Reverso' in its intended use to help auto lock the rope for a second as shown in the picture below.

To round off the day Sam and Patrick climbed Big Band (S) in the shade.