Coire an t-Sneachda In The Wind

Matt walking into Coire an t-Sneachda, with lots of people passing us the other way, on their way out.

Matt in Coire an t-Sneachda today (New Year's Eve) from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Matt drove up from Oxford yesterday for 2 days of climbing, so the pressure was on to get out and get it! The forecast looked like a better day was to be had over east, although it would be windy, wet and wild everywhere. We took a gamble and headed east, driving past a very hidden and wet Ben Nevis. The windscreen wipers were on fast by 7am, and were were driving through flooded roads where other cars were turning back. The further east we got the less it rained. When we got into the coire, the rock was running with water, so we opted for The Haston Line (IV,4) which had good neve and good ice. Even the crux had good ice. As I started on pitch 2, there was a shift in the wind direction, and suddenly the wet ropes and gear froze solid. The turf on pitch 2 was frozen solid, and the neve the best I've seen it this winter. We got to where the route crosses Yukon Jack (IV,5) and finished up that. Matt led it well, and managed to find a good sheltered belay at the top. A great day, and only a little suffering - ace.

We saw 2 other teams on the Mess of Pottage, and I think they climbed Jacob's Edge.

Matt starts up Haston Line (IV,4)

Matt waving a wet, cold hand

Matt running up pitch 2

Matt enjoying the new DMM Apex axes

Matt disappearing up the top section of Yukon Jack

A slow day in the Gorms

Our outing yesterday gave Stuart and I a good leg work out trudging through deep snow into Coire an't Sneachda.  The recent snowfall has covered everything but the biggest boulders and lucky trees that can stand tall in the drifts.

We left the car park at 08:15 and after some slight detours following the rough path in the snow we arrived in the coire almost 2 and a half hours later.

For the most part the snow was at least knee high and visibility very poor.

One of the few other parties in the Coire (approaching Aladins Mirror Direct).

As all the brilliant conditions (frozen turf, ice, neve etc.) that we encountered merely a week ago was buried under snow (several inches to several feet in places!) we headed for the glimmer of ice at Aladin's Mirror Direct (IV,4**). 

Since visibility was so poor and given the amount of wading through snow we'd already done we decided to set up a rope on top of the ice pitch after i led it.  Normally i would be reluctant to do so but since most parties we had seen turned back and the coire being very quiet this caused no disruption.

Stuart topping out of the ice pitch.

Stuart had a good few climbs on various sections of the ice that ranged from excellent blue/green vertical ice, softer sections and then thinner yet strong sections over the rocks to the left.

Loch morlich trying to peep through the mist.

The visibility lifted occasionally but gave us no clear views until well down the approach path to the car park. 

Sods law! Great conditions but pap weather

Ryan, Johannes and I ventured into Coire an t'Sneachda yesterday to see what we could see; quite a lot on the way in but as forecasted the driving winds an snow reduced that severely.

We ahd hoped to get a couple of routes in if not then one middle grade climb.  So, given that the winds were quite buffeting when we arrived at the rescue box we ascended to the bottom of Central Left Hand.  Conditions were absolutely brilliant with solid neve and some good ice forming accross the entire height of the crag.  Cornices seemed solid with some fantastic bomber snow and ice to play on higher up.
Given that on our short ascent to the start of the climbs we noticed and unintentionally caused a few fractures in the snow slope we opted to stay out of the powder filled gullies and popped onto the buttress left of Central Left Hand.

Given that the terrain was well within our capabilities we didn't rope up and took on the challenge of a cheeky wee solo to the top (not reccomended of course due to the inherant dangers!).  After a few rock steps and steep iced snow we reached the solid cornice that merely required a small step over.

Topping out; we decided to descend the Goat Track, ahve lunch and make a descision as to climb another route or not. 

The lesson of the day was: Goggles!  Oh how i wish i had remembered them...

The descent was rather painful on the face as increasingly strong winds were thrashing spiindrift up the slope onto us making seeiong where we were going rather hard.  Fortunately having put up with such abuse before (a requirement almost for any Scottish Winter Climbing) we got to th ebase of the coire for sandwiches and coffee.

As with most weekends there were masses of teams in the coire going about their business.  Quite right too given that rime, ice, neve and verglass were all brilliant and turf frozen solid.  Long may it continue.

So after leving the car at 08:30 we arrived back there at 13:00 to find that the ski road had been closed for cars going tot he ski centre.

A quick tea stop in aviemore and we headed home again with great hopes to get out soon whilst conditions are so good.  Let's hope we get the weather next time too!

Winter Skills - Nevis Range

Digging emergency shelters

Today I was working with Mike Pescod and Donlad King. We took the college students over to the nevis range for the last day of their lightening winter skills course. There is so much snow about. Three weeks ago they were wondering where we would go for the course, and if there would be a winter here, but today there was so much snow about we had to make careful decisions to keep safe. Mike Pescod runs Abacus Mountaineering Coaching and Guiding.

After a great course - back to the Gondola

Beinn a Chaorainn

Difficult approach through the forest

Today I was working with Mike Pescod and Donald King again. Today we decided to take the college students on a ridge journey - the chosen venue was the East ridge of Beinn a Chaorainn. The days journey started with a route through the forest, and we immediately discovered all the damage form the storm last Thursday - trees everyehere! There was a LOT of snow on the ground which was deep, and difficult to walk through. We took turns to complete breaking the trail. Luckily the students are all very fit. The walk in was definitely my cross training gym session for today.

The surface was firmer after the forest

The sun was out, and I wondered if it was a mistake leaving my sun glasses at home. The fun started as we left the forest behind and we moved toward the ridge - which was looking splendid in it's winter outfit

Still sunny on the ridge

As always the ridge was awesome. The sun was soon hidden by the snow flurries which moved in. We climbed up into the descending cloud base.

The snow had closed in

Very poor visibility navigation

At the top we discussed navigation strategies to move to the southern top. The cornices on the eastern coire rim were massive, as seen from earlier in the day.

Looks like a compass - what's this photo for?!

A happy team

A very happy team on the way down

On the way down we managed to find some snow that we could have some fun in - it's always good to be 5 years old in the snow. Another successful day of winter in Scotland.

Winter Skills

Students on Fiacaill Coire an t-Sneachda

Today I was working with Mike Pescod and Donald King. We took the College students on their first day over to the Northern Cairngorms. We moved over to the NE aspect of the Fiacaill Coire an t-Sneachda. During our sliding about session we encountered some easily releasing slab on a NE aspect, on the apex of a convex slope.

We made our way up onto the ridge and found an exciting route for the students - day 1 on crampons.

This is Chris

I took a look at 0.5 gully and didn't like the look of it, so I came down the goat track gully.

Goggles on. An awesome day 1

There were lots of climbers about, on a wide variety of climbs - not that I could see much, through the mist. I'm just going on the climbing calls I could hear form the climbs.

Fingers Ridge

Fluted Buttress

Much less wind was forecast today, so I was excited to have an easy weather day of climbing after being beaten up yesterday, when I was out with Dave. I met up with Hannah Evans, and we drove to the east and made our way up to Coire an t-Sneachda. She had her eyes on Fingers Ridge (IV 4/5 ***). We were happy to find nobody else on it, but there were lots of skiers on the pistes and lots of climbers in the coire. We left our ice screws in the car, but we saw other people placing screws in the ice that was about. I was excited to find that the turf is well and truely frozen.

Hannah on the first pitch

We saw lots of people on the Fluted Buttress, Red Gully and Goat Track gully got lots of accents.

Hannah leading off on the second pitch

I enjoyed the first pitch and found the snow soft in places, but under the surface, and exposed in many places it has formed a solid neve. Hannah joined me and took the rack for a walk on the second pitch.

Hannah after the second pitch

After Hannah's rib over looking Broken Gully, we got onto the wall leading to the large right facing open groove - up to the narrow ridge. This is where I clipped an in situ hex, and later when I said to Han - did you see the insitu yellow hex, she pointed at her harness, and asked 'this one?!'

Han on the fine narrow ridge

Hannah enjoyed the ridge, but was excited about leading through the fingers.

Han dealing with the fingers traverse

The blocks on the fingers are well frozen together, and there was a lot of ice on their far side. Still Hannah managed to find some non-winterised cracks for good cam placements.

I'm on the final wall

Eventually I got what I was looking forward to - the final wall. There are brilliant deep hooks all the way up, and it finished with a horizontal axe torque. What else could you ask for.

Stunning scenery. I learnt today that there used to be 3 fingers

Han on the final wall, concentrating on footwork

Hannah showed good footwork on the way up - always looking down, and rarely at the camera!

Han using a brilliant axe shaft torque in a horizontal crack, and applying nearly full body weight

So it was a brilliant day. The weather was great and lots of people were taking good advantage of it. The climbing conditions were awesome, frozen turf, hard neve, and a day full of hooking..