Coire an t-Sneachda In The Wind

Matt walking into Coire an t-Sneachda, with lots of people passing us the other way, on their way out.

Matt in Coire an t-Sneachda today (New Year's Eve) from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Matt drove up from Oxford yesterday for 2 days of climbing, so the pressure was on to get out and get it! The forecast looked like a better day was to be had over east, although it would be windy, wet and wild everywhere. We took a gamble and headed east, driving past a very hidden and wet Ben Nevis. The windscreen wipers were on fast by 7am, and were were driving through flooded roads where other cars were turning back. The further east we got the less it rained. When we got into the coire, the rock was running with water, so we opted for The Haston Line (IV,4) which had good neve and good ice. Even the crux had good ice. As I started on pitch 2, there was a shift in the wind direction, and suddenly the wet ropes and gear froze solid. The turf on pitch 2 was frozen solid, and the neve the best I've seen it this winter. We got to where the route crosses Yukon Jack (IV,5) and finished up that. Matt led it well, and managed to find a good sheltered belay at the top. A great day, and only a little suffering - ace.

We saw 2 other teams on the Mess of Pottage, and I think they climbed Jacob's Edge.

Matt starts up Haston Line (IV,4)

Matt waving a wet, cold hand

Matt running up pitch 2

Matt enjoying the new DMM Apex axes

Matt disappearing up the top section of Yukon Jack

Deep Cut Chimney ****

Matt approaching  Hell's Lum, with Loch Avon behind

After celebrating Hannah's birthday on New Year's Eve, Matt and I got an early night, so that we could have an early start on New Year's Day and head off to the Cairngorms. We wanted to take a look at Deep Cut Chimney (IV,5 ****), but we knew that we would have to take care of the new easterly aspect windslab. The slab turned out to be very patchy and we were able to navigate a way through, and before we knew it we were at the start of the climb, so it was game on.

The start of the initial traverse ramps, to the start of the technical climbing

Due to the conditions we decided to pitch from the start of the traverse, we didn't know what slab if any we would find half way across the traverse. We put the rack together considering the main chimney, and some how we had decided to leave our ice screws at home - mistake! If you go to climb it - take screws, they'd be useful on the traverse, and the first main 60m pitch.

Matt on pitch one of the technical climbing - by now we realised our mistake of leaving our ice screws at home!

Matt did well on the first main pitch without screws and found good rock runners. We didn't really expect this first 60m to be tech 5, but it did turn out to have several sections of 5. With the conditions of snow that we had today, I thought this was harder than Point 5 Gully (when it's in good condition).

Matt about to place the warthog into some frozen turf

My turn - getting deeper into the chimney

It was my turn to take over on the next pitch, and I just kept going, not really knowing where to belay, so I ended up all the way at the top, by the green tat. Next time I would have belayed much earlier to have a more comfortable stance, and room for 2.

Looking back down at Matt

Matt approaching the belay (green tat belay) at the end of the last gully pitch

When  Matt got to the belay we had to fight over who would lead the last pitch, but he gave it to me, so I nervously/excitedly started up the roof turning pitch. Right at the back, I found the good in-situ thread runner (evidence of people ab-ing off from here). From here I found some bomber hooks, then a nut runner, then a spike, then the final in-situ black thread runner. The final moves were equally exciting, then I was out - into the poor weather - I almost wanted to get back into the shelter of the chimney! I took a belay where I could see Matt, then it was his turn. The videos are quite funny, but if you don't like swearing, please turn the volume to mute on the last video!

The climb was awesome and earned all of it's 4 stars. Thanks for a great 2 days Matt, have a safe drive back to England.

Matt starting to climb the final pitch - out of the gully and turning the roof

Matt about to start to do battle with the final section

Deep Cut Chimney with Matt Leggett from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Searching for those hooks

video 2 from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

It's nearly all over - just the final escape moves - down and around

Finding a way to escape the roof

Deep Cut Chimney - Matt finishing the last pitch from Max Hunter on Vimeo.