Craig Bwlch Y Moch - 16th April

Lena starting pitch 2 of Grim Wall

Lena climbing in the sun and a t-shirt - Wales or Spain?

The 16th April in North Wales turned out to be a pretty good day. We managed to snatch a couple of climbs at Tremadog, avoiding the colder weather of the higher crags. We were initially able to climb in t-shirts, but then by afternoon, the temperature fell and more clothing was needed to keep going - until eventually I froze! We started with Lena leading Grim Wall (VS 4c**)

Lena cruising up the steep wall to the top

Lena did well working out the guide book route for the top pitch, getting through the mini roofs, to the exciting steep finish - a great climb.

I'm at the beginning of pitch 1 of Grim Wall Direct

I liked the look of Grim Wall Direct (E1 5b**) as our next climb. This was definitely a tricky crack to start with, but the wide bridge out right helped.

Pitch 1 turned out to be excellent

Pitch 2 was also good, but by now thew hot sun had disappeared and I was cold!

I was cold when I got to pitch 2, so this turned out to be a struggle, especially when I saw the few other climbers, leave for belay jackets, or indoors! Another great day, in almost great weather.

Catrin And Tanya At Tremadog - 10th April

Catrin on the final arete of Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate

After we had managed to get most things dried off from the heavy rain of Monday, we headed to Tremadog - Craig Bwlch y Moch, for some dryer climbing. We started on Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate (HS). Tanya followed me on the correct HS line, but Catrin always managed to find her own variant - on this occasion she took a triangular niche to a thin crack above (finishing up the arete) - this turned out to be the very end of 'Taste of Thunder'.

Catrin on Y Broga

We moved on to the Merlin Buttress and Tanya top-roped Oberon (S) and Catrin top-roped Y Broga (HVS 5a).

Catrin at the end of a dry day

After top-roping Y Broga, Catrin wanted to do some more leading so she chose the original Oberon (HS 4c).

I've just got the news that Catrin has led her first indoor 7b - congratulations Catrin...

A Day At Craig Pant Ifan - 7th April

Approaching the Barbarian 2nd overlap

The weather asked for a change and so we moved to Tremadog to find climbing in the sun, warm and dry. We started on the excellent Barbarian (E1 5b) at Craig Pant Ifan.

I thought this would be a possible rest position! - it turned out not to be - but I did later manage to find 2 knee jams. This wasn't quite as good as Lena's body jam - that gave her a resting hands free position to look over the overlap!

Done

The final pitch

Lena then moved onto Scratch (VS 4b)

Lena chilling out after the layback/jamming corner

The next day (8th April) we stayed at Tremadog but went to Craig Bwich y Moch and Striptease (VS 5a). The guidebook suggests that you swarm up the first pitch - I didn't do that but more 'enjoyed' it... Lena took us to the top with the second pitch - and brought us to the end of our first week of climbing.

For the next week (9th to 13th April) I'll be taking Catrin and Tanya climbing - unfortunately Monday is heavy rain!

Sunday - Part 2

Nicki showing off after the crux of One Step In The Clouds

We decided to do the Uber classic One Step In The Clouds (VS) before lunch, so yet again we dashed over hoping to beat the crouds (and rain clouds). We had about 1 minute of rain after pitch 1, but then it warmed up again - brilliant. I love this climb.

BMC Student Seminar - Sunday 4th - Part 1

Nicki on pitch 2 of Christmas Curry

Matt and Nicki
Matt on the final Christmas Curry arete

On the Sunday of the BMC Student Seminar, Nicki, Matt and I met early at 9am in PYB for a quick get away to Tremadog - to beat the crouds. We jumped immediately on one of the lower grade classics - Christmas Curry (Micah Eliminate HS). It soon got crowded, with other teams arriving below us and on the Plum. I always love this climb - awesome. The weather was threatening - we were warned of possible showers, so we all had jackets on, but soon the sun came out and we bathed in heat. We found out later that the teams who went to Ogwen had rain for most of the day and the slabs were a waterfall :( Tremadog climbing - a winner again.