La Tartiflette At Le Brevent

Alison on pitch 3

At the beginning of this week I met up with Alison Culshaw in Chamonix for a couple of days of climbing before the weather would fall apart on Wednesday. On Sunday for an easy low stress day we wanted to make use of the uplift at Le Brevent, but found when we got there that the upper lift was closed for the end of the season, so we could only get to the midstation - Planplaz. We decided not to walk up to 'Crakoukass', but do the 6 pitches of 'La Tartiflette' instead.

Alison on pitch 4

Crakoukass was really busy with about 3-4 teams so we were glad to get a climb to ourselves. The climb turned out to be a mini gem, with quality rock, and little evidence of anybody else using it - the rock was still covered in lichen with zero polish - refreshing after climbing so many polished classics.

Stunning scenery over to Mont Blanc

Alison on the 4a traverse

The last pitch - a perfect 4c pitch

After the final quick ab, and dropping back down to Chamonix, we had time to come up with a plan for my final 2 days in France, before the rain and snow on Wednesday would arrive.

L'Ile Aux Razmokets, Vallon De Berard (Vallorcine)

Alison Culshaw on Pitch 1, 5a

Pitch 2, 5c

I'm on Pitch 3, 6a

Pitch 5, 6a

Pitch 5

Pitch 6, 4c

Pitch 6

Alison starting the ab's after the 8 pitches

We only had less than half a day because Alison was buying a house or something - highly inconsiderate when there's climbing to be done!! So we headed for a sport route in Vallon de Berard... Despite somebody forgetting the guidebook, we still found the route (thanks to James for being at the end of the phone reading the guide book to us!). Most of the 8 pitches were good... Excellent.

Change Of Plan Again. Back To Cragging

View from Chamonix this morning, of the Mont Blanc side of the valley

Stunning shadow formations

This morning, Alison Culshaw and I were all ready to pack and set off up to the hut for the climb tomorrow, but then a last minute check of the weather on the computer changed everything. The predicted northerly winds on Monday morning up high had increased to 55kph (Chamonix weather), too high to be safe on a ridge, or to have any fun at all. So the plan was cancelled, and a new plan needed for the afternoon. A quick head scratch and look through the guide books (something not too far to drive, something with a short walk because it's nearly lunch-time already, and somewhere that Alison hasn't already been to before) - we found the Barberine crag in Switzerland, that looked interesting. So there we went. We managed to get about 6 pitches of 5a up to 6a done before a sudden heavy shower, that finished the day.

The enormous crag at Barberine. The cliff is around 300m high. The guide book says - 'smearing is the name of the game'

I had to share one slab pitch with this insect. It wasn't interested in moving, but luckily it wasn't on a crucial hold, so we didn't bother each other. It was gone by the time Alison passed by

Pissevache - Bravo Lapp

Alison on pitch 5 of Bravo Lapp, Pissevache, Switzerland

For an extended summer holiday, I came out to Chamonix yesterday to visit Alison and James, to see what the weather would be like for climbing. The weather forecast for today wasn't great, and rain was due around the Chamonix valley by midday. So trying to avoid the rain for a few more hours, Alison and I headed over the border to Switzerland hoping for dry rock until early afternoon, before the rain set in. We chose from the Plaisir West guide book 'Bravo Lapp' in the Pissvache area (Bas Valais) which is 10 pitches with 3 of 5b. The first crux of the day was navigating the tiny narrow steep streets of Les Granges trying to find the parking. The next difficulty was following the approach topo to get to the crag (don't purely rely on the guide book). Eventually we found the start point of the climb, a little later than expected and so the fun started with climbing. The drizzle started in about pitch 3/4 but was only light so we pushed on. We found the tree house half way through the day - but somehow missed the beer (with adjacent honesty box). Maybe this was fortuitous, because if we weren't so quick on the next 2 pitches the rain would have started before the fun 5b pitches and made us start a retreat. I think the team behind us got here a little late, and abandoned their day at the treehouse (probably with the beer) - so did they stop due to the rain, or beer?. Pitches 8 and 9 were the best of the route. Even the route through the cliffs back to the path were an adventure - and so in increasing rain we got to the car happy that we'd made the best of a poor day.

Definitely go and do it.

Alison on pitch 7

The 'tree house' that we passed along the route.

I still can't spot the beer and honesty box

The upper section of pitch 8, just below the belay

Pitch 8

La Joux

We headed for this small crag near Argentiere for a chilled afternoon in the sun. Unfortunately lots of other people had the same idea and it turned out to be very busy. Above Matt Leggett is crusing one of the Diamant routes. Despite the crouds we had a great social sport afternoon.

Minettes Ridge, Aiguille du Peigne

Matt, Lena and I headed out for the Minettes Ridge from the Plan in Chamonix. Lena led us up the direct start heading for 'the gap', crossing with the Normal Route. Here in the photo Matt seems to be having a rest from climbing for the photo.

Lena making 'the awkward step' round a corner.



Lena heading up the next corner.

Matt finding the way forward, and upwards, sporting his new Scarpa boots.

Matt making awkward moves look easy, questing for the summit.

Near the summit now - glaciers below.

After the summit, a quick few raps down, into the thickening mist..

Here we are making our way back to the downlift after a cold bivvy out.

21st July, Voie Frison-Roche -TD

Lena leading the second pitch - surely not supposed to be having this much fun !

Chamonix down in the valley

One of the steeper pitches

The steepest 6a pitch

What shall I do? Jam, thrutch, layback, face climb lol (it turned out to be a layback).

The last pitch (5c). Awesome climbing on perfect rock. This was easily the best pitch of the climb. Even the people in the telepherique had a good time with their perfect viewing opportunity - we were in full view of everybody !!!

It was difficult to know what to do this week really. It has been hot for several weeks, and there has been a great deal of snow and ice melt, so lots of ice routes just aren't there, and a great deal of normal snow is just missing! On top of that the melt has been releasing a great deal of rock, and the rockfalls have been enormous, scary, and to be heard from miles away! - Sometimes blocks as big as houses being released. I had our eyes on the Frendo Spur before I came out, but this was definitely out of the question, the approach was deadly! So, what to do? We decided to keep to rock routes, or the safest of snow/ice routes... So today we got onto the recommended Voie Frison- Roche on the Brevent. It turned out to be awesome sport climbing at an ammenable grade (up to 6a). This was a good chance to flex our sport muscles and look across at the Mont Blanc Massif and dream of other routes. There was a great platform to have a rest before the last / best pitch !

19th July, Land in Chamonix

Lena on 'Eclipse-toi'

Lena on 'Un peu de toi, un peu de moi'

Lena managing the long reach

Pulling through

So I landed in Chamonix, and met with Alison Culshaw. She's lucky enough to live in Chamonix! So when I met Lena Brune the next day, upon Alison's recommendation we headed for Coupeau for a bit of sport climbing. We did 'Eclipse-toi' 5a, 'L'eau d'Issey de Chantal' 5c, 'Et 1 et 2 et 3/0' 6a+ and 'Un peu de toi, un peu de moi' 6a. An awesome little crag, and a good test of our strength, in prep for the rest of the week...

Autoroute blanche

Matt on pitch 1

So yesterday I drove from La grave in the Parc National des Ecrins up to Chamonix, via Italy. I met up with Alison Culshaw and Matt Leggett. I got up late and headed into Switzerland with Matt to have a go at Autotoute Blanche. This is when I realised I was tired! Pitch 1 was wet when we did it, but dry at the end of the day as we abseiled down.
Matt
Matt sticking his legg out for dramatic effect!

Matt has been away from climbing for about 2 years and is loving being back.

So we both had fun on our first day climbing in the alps - unfortunatly just as the weather is about to turn tomorrow afternoon... I'll catch up on sleep then, or go shopping - there's always more gear to buy!!

Alps an Peru

I´ve just had a great week in Chamonix visiting Alison Culshaw and climbing with Lena Brune. I managed to get 6 days there and climbed as much as the fickle weather allowed. We got some great climbing and routes done.
Photos and blog entries to follow ...

I then flew to Peru for Adventure Peaks, and I´m here now in Cusco, prepping to do the classic inca trail to Machu Picchu.
Photos and blog entries to follow ...

16th Aug. Aiguille De L'M

This proved to be exciting. It taught us a lot about the need for fast alpine / light climbing (need some light kit). This was just what we needed for our last day of climbing. Good weather and lots of pitches of great climbing. We learnt lots about the infamous Chamonix crack climbing (jamming feet and arms - my sore ankle got a work out lol).

A great week.

Chamonix better be there next year - I plan to go back to advance my alpine climbing...