14th Aug, Spartan Slab, Glen Etive

Lena gearing up for the first pitch of Spartan Slab VS. The slab was only just about dry enough really, and unfortunatley we didn't have any wind - so the midges were our companions for the entire climb - almost enough to make you abseil retreat and run, run, run.... So here Lena sports her midge net - a good look ;)

Lena on the first pitch. We had to climb with our midge nets on. The midges did however still get to our faces, necks, hands, arms and feet - enough to drive you mad ! At the end of this pitch, Lena found gear for an abseil retreat from the previous team. Rather than use it and escape, we took it out and decided to man up and finish the last 5 pitches...



Glen Etive

The traverse pitch

The awkward step across move. There are few holds on the slab.

Made it...

The weather was just about good enough for a climb on the Saturday. so we headed for Glen Etive. Hopefully next time we get here the midges will be gone and the rock won't be seeping as much - that'll be time for the friction testpieces...

Midges And Climbing

Lena on pitch 1 of Storm, on Cavalry Crack Buttress

Lena and I had a good afternoon of climbing at Polldubh today, but as we were uncoiling the ropes, we had to stop and quickly get our midge nets out. So this means that I was able to go until the 13th June before I needed to wear a midge net this year - pretty good. However today, I was glad I had it with me. We looked at each other through midge nets and nearly decided to bin it and go mountain biking instead - but we got on with it. Today was my first lead on Storm! Pitch 2 is fantastic, I can't wait to do it again. Then we headed off to Dundee Buttress bacause Lena wanted to get on Weaver's Loom, as her first HVS of the season. She went through the crux well at the top, and so it was my turn. I got onto the neighbouring climb - Heading for the Howff - some brilliant moves through the crux. Dundee Buttress should be in G Latter's book. So we did manage to ignore the midges enough to have a good afternoon - on the rock we didn't have any problems with the little devils. Now, back indoors I'm looking at all the bites on my arms, ankles and face - they'll be gone by tomorrow :)

Pitch 2 of Storm

Pitch 2 of Storm

Lena on 'Weaver's Loom' on Dundee Buttress (First HVS 5a of the year)

'Weaver's Loom'

'Weaver's Loom'

The Crux of 'Weaver's Loom'

'Heading for the Howff' (my first HVS 5b of the year)

Getting ready for the crux on 'Heading for the Howff'

Glen Nevis - 1st May

Lena pitch 2 of Pandora**

At the moment we're enjoying some clear skies, little wind and high temperatures in Fort William - so still with barely any midges about it's a good chance to get out and climb.

I'm on Phantom Slab (VS 5a***)

Glen Nevis was busy on the 1st, but in the evening we found nobody on Phantom Slab, which gives excellent well protected 5a climbing.