Robinwood On Skye

Finding Dry Rock On Skye

On our first climb at Meall Deas, Rubha Hunish, North Skye

This week I bought the new SMC Guidebooks for Skye, and we were keen to use one of them straight away, so with a packed van we headed off to try some of the Northern Skye Sea-Cliffs. We managed to avoid the showers yesterday and today and got some good climbing done on some remote sea cliffs. We were the only climbers any where to be seen, and these venues don't feel too commonly visited. We found some loose rock which was a bit unnerving, vegetated starts and ends, but some very good quality climbing. On the sea cliffs I was very glad that I had brought a separate abseil rope, so that the tops of all the climbs were rigged. The rock we found (a few times under lichen) was always rough offering hugh friction (I rarely used my chalk!). We'll be back :)

See more photos on my Facebook Page.

We discovered that there is a lot of loose rock, lots of vegetation at the bottom and top and very little evidence of traffic!

Some of the pitches were excellent on perfect rock

The scenery was fantastic with a good sense of remoteness

Lena perched at the top of the second pitch

More boring scenery!

Trying to find a way up a climb which has seen little traffic

Lena's turn on the lead

Loch Ness monster or a sea otter - brilliant

We spent today at Flodigarry, Northern Skye

Ardnamurchan - 28th April

Freda, Hannah, Ken and Matt enjoying a break between climbs at Ardnamurchan

The search for dry weather and clear blue skies continued last weekend, and upon arrival back in Scotland from a climbing trip in Wales, we headed straight over to Ardnamurchan - the most westerly point on mainland Scotland. This goes with the coastal theme of the last few weeks, visiting Pembrokeshire, Gower, and Holyhead on Anglesey. At Ardnamurchan we had good views of Muck, Eigg, Rum and Skye. We joined up with Matt, Freda, Martyn, Laurie, Ken and Hannah to make a big van dwelling, climbing gang.

Hannah leading pitch 1 of Volcane (E1 4c,5b**)

Upon arrival at Creag Meall an Fhir-Eoin, the teams were already climbing Volcane, Yir and Oswald. Matt was already eyeing up Tremor Crack (E3 6a*) to the side of Oswald. Lena jumped on Yir to remember what the climbing on Ardnamurchan gabbro is like. The huge friction under your feet and hands does help you stick to almost anything, but means that your finger tips can only last a few days.

Lena leading pitch 1 of Yir (VS 4c***)

I'm on pitch 2 variation of Yir

Matt and Freda at the top of Tremor Crack (E3 6a*). You can see the moon rising behind Freda's back.

At the top of Yir, we could see Matt and Freda having fun on Tremor Crack, so we all decided we wanted a go! Ken was up next and climbed it clean.

Ken leading Tremor Crack (E3 6a*)

Hannah seconding Tremor Crack

Laurie at the top of Claude (VS 5a**) with Martyn seconding

Matt seconding Up Pompei (E2 5b**)

I started on Up Pompei, to test the friction under my feet. It was a little run out, but when there was gear it was excellent.

Matt enjoying Up Pompei

After Up Pompei, it was my turn to have a go at Tremor Crack (E3 6a). There was no slab here! Instead, an overhanging crack with a couple of awkward moves - so I only managed to get up with a million rests!

Martyn leading Up Pompei (E2 5b**)

Lena leading Stromboli (HVS 5b*)

Later in the day we moved to Meall an Fhir-Eoin and the Hooded Wall. Realising she had a good feel for the rock and its friction, Lena got onto Stromboli which has a good steep wall.

Lena on the steep wall of Stromboli

Ken leading Etna (E1 5b**) on the left, and Matt leading Stromboli (HVS 5b*) on the right

The other excellent climbs on Hooded wall are Vesuvius, Krakatoa, and Etna, all getting several ascents from the team.

I'm on the top slab of Dead Ringer (E1 5b*)

I had a go on Dead Ringer to finish the day, and enjoyed another slab on the second pitch. This was the end of a brilliant day of socialising and climbing - made even better by a clear sunset in the west off the tip of Sanna Bay.

Winter On The Cuillin Ridge (AMI Workshop)

The Cuillin Ridge in winter conditions

Association of Mountaineering Instructors - AMI

This weekend was a chance to take part in the AMI Cuillin Workshops on Skye. The workshop I attended run by Derek Bain, was to discuss working on the Cuillin Ridge Traverse in summer conditions. On Derek's workshop, besides myself were Monty, Iain and Karl. We knew there was still snow on the ridge, so we took our winter kit, but didn't quite know how much to expect. Saturday started with poor vis, but as soon as we hit the ridge, the mists cleared and we had a few hours of great weather and reasonable snow conditions. The weather turned at the end of the day, as the clouds descended again, and the rain started. The winds picked up through the night and Sunday turned out to be a very different weather beast - more snow and rain on reasonably strong winds.

One of my top dozen winter days this 12-13 winter season (in late April!). Excellent.

Loch Coir a' Ghrunnda

Approaching the Castle from Sgurr nan Eag

The Castle

Starting the traverse to Sgurr Dubh Mor

The scrambling is normally easy in summer, but under the snow and ice a great deal of care was needed

Some steep wintery scrambling

Sgurr nan Eag was really popular on Saturday with 10-15 people on the tops

See our footprints on the left of shot. The snow made a little of the going easier, freezing the loose boulders/scree together

Gars-bheinn to Sgurr nan Eag

Sgurr Alasdair to the middle of the ridge

The end of the ridge to Sgurr nan Gillean

Firm snow up to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn

Up to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn, from Sgurr Dugh Mor from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

A look around at the Cuillin Ridge from the top of Sgurr Dubh as Da Bheinn from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

One of the ridges bivvy spots - some snow clearing needed!

Thank you Derek B., Sandy P., and AMI.