Tower Ridge

Queues for Tower Scoop (!) and large crouds going up for Smith's and Good Friday Climb area

Today I was working for Jagged Globe, with Eddie. Eddie started his mountaineering career last week. By Wednesday he was on his first ever route (Curved Ridge II/III,3****). Friday saw him on his second route (Ledge Route II****), and today his third route turned out to be Tower Ridge IV,3****. Also gearing up ahead of me for the climb were Ken and Spike with their clients.

Eddie on Tower Ridge

It turned out to be a really busy day on the Ben. The car parks were full, and there seemed to be people everywhere, queueing! There was a big queue for Tower Scoop, and other teams seeing the queue...changing their plans!

The crowds I found after the Little Tower

There were more teams on Tower Ridge in a single day than I have ever seen before. For some of them it was their first day on the Ben - a brilliant first day.

The team I found in front of me on the Eastern Traverse. Behind I could zoom in on teams on Smith's and Gardyloo Buttress

On the Eastern Traverse I could see how good Smith's Route looked.

Teams on Good Friday Climb and Saturday Finish (looking more like a grade 4 from here)

Eddie loved it

Eddie has just come out of Tower Gap

Eddie has finished his 3rd ever climb (1=Curved Ridge last Wednesday, 2=Ledge Route last Friday, 3=Tower Ridge today)

Eddie was well chuffed with his climb today, and so he should be. He only started this climbing thing last week, but he is fit, strong, great on his feet, able to improvise and strong willed, so what will his next challenge be...

Some spectacular views on the way down

Another great weather day on the Ben !!

Smith's Route

Smith's Route (V,5****) in the centre of the photo

I met Andy Stotesbury for another day on the Ben, and we went off to check out Smith's Route. The mountain was much quieter than the busy weekend. We saw several teams on Tower Ridge, Tower Scoop, Gardyloo Gully, another team on Smith's after us (sorry for the ice on your heads!), Green Gully and White Line. We got to the climb, and the ice looked terrific, and the neve was solid all over the mountain. I was first up, and led up to the cave. There was almost a path of hooks on the way up. The ice was solid and thick - taking long screws. When I got to the cave - it was dry with no dripping - a day for the softshell!

The ice cave belay at the end of the first pitch.

Andy on the first pitch

Andy arriving at the belay

Andy starting off on the second pitch out of the cave - The Icicle Variation

Andy set off on the second pitch and again there were some brilliant hero hooks. The icicle on the left was solid, and again took long screws. I had time in the cave to watch 2 teams making good progress up Tower Ridge and a team top out on Tower Scoop. Eventually I had to leave the cave and do some climbing - which turned out to be a brilliant pitch.

A team topped out on Tower Ridge

As I topped out I met Scott Kirkhope who was working.

Rock hard neve everywhere

Andy off to the summit

On our way down to Number 4 gully

Glover's Chimney across to Green Gully, Cascade in the middle

We came down Number 4 gully, which is a very easy angle at the moment, and saw climbers on White Line and Green Gully.

Panorama of Ben Nevis summit after Smith's Route from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

Good Friday Climb

Incomplete Point 5 Gully, Observatory Buttress, Smith's Route, Tower Scoop

I teamed up with Andy Stotesbury to have a look at the Ben today. After a headtorch start we nearly made it first into Observatory Gully, but were beaten to it by Rocio and Ben. They took a look at Smith's Route but decided it was a little thin with water running behind - so they left it, as did we - off to plan b. However, Kenny, Guy and John went up Smith's on the Icicle variation.

Orion Faces, Observatory Ridge, Point 5 Gully

Point 5 is still not there - or Zero, and the lower section of Observatory ridge looks like it almost has zero snow, as does the lower section of NE Buttress.

Smith's Route

Andy Stotesbury with Tower Gap behind

We opted for Good Friday Climb, to give us something from the day, as neither of us had done it before. We found another team on it, who told us about their successful string of climbs over the last week.

The traverse of Good Friday Climb (III***). Andy about to start across the traverse - just unclipping from the in-situ nut.

The second pitch of Good Friday Climb

The whole climb had some great neve, but also a great deal of ice crusted sugar snow. The traverse in particular had that booming hollow sound for the feet, below the ice crust, and the ice was not always good for screws. The main ice after the traverse, however was on the most part good and thick in places.

The summit

Little Brenva Face in Coire Leis

We came down via the abseil posts into Coire Leis to check out the Little Brenva Face.

People were climbing Tower Scoop, Good Friday Climb, a team gearing up below Indicator Wall (climbed?), Smith's Route(?), Tower Gully, Tower Ridge.