Golden Oldy

Overlooking Easy Gully

A day off without a climbing partner - what do you do - go out, stretch your legs and visit a classic climb. I chose Golden Oldy on the west face of Aonach Mor. It was a good chance to renew my gondola season ticket at the office at 9am (and a good excuse for a late start). At the ticket desk I met the Adventure Peaks climbing team (heading for the Nid area), and the Jagged Globe Winter skills team heading for the summit.

There were 3 other climbers heading for the same destination. We all came to meet to discuss our targets. As a result I had Golden Oldy all to myself.

The climbing was fine. With altitude the snow eventually firmed up, and then reached the point of being frozen, but with a crust on the top and unconsolidated below. In the final run to the top, I found some dubious slab.

On the summit plateau, I met up with Jagged Globe again on their way to the summit, and I met a couple of climbers topping out on Left Twin. Their approach wasn't the abseil, but they had approached from the climbers col - and from their description of the snow - I won't be going there any time soon. The East face approach slopes are known for their avalanche capability. The cornices were enormous and looking very fragile. Easy Gully was not the place to be and there were no climbers anywhere near it.

Scottish Ice

Me !

Today was my first Scottish day of 2010. I joined Chris Walker and his client Kerry. The wind was strong gusting to 75mph and was building slab on NW to NE aspects. So we kept low at about 750m. We found a large mass of ice perfect for our use. We had a great day climbing all over the ice (I must file my axes). Roll on tomorow..

Everybody Loves Canoeing

Are they both enjoying themselves?

Another day training with the army - on the river. They managed to develop all their hard canoe skills, and develop their army core values, so at the end they were allowed some down time to have fun. Awesome. Yes, it was cold...

Now it's time to prepare for Scotland, move into Fort William, and hit the hills. I'll be doing a mix of work and play. The low level ice may have gone - but it's still winter, and there's still lots to do..

14th, Canoeing On A Cold Wye

Another day for canoeing on the river Wye. The river levels were low. All the precipitation has been solid as snow recently. Eventually when it melts the levels will rise.
The scenery is beautiuful and the canoeing, fun..

13th Jan, More Snow, More Nav

Above - reaching the first summit

Below - The marks made by a pheasant on take off - not a snow angel

My turn to take the Soldiers (SUT) out for a winter day. The snow was so deep where it had drifted, it was in places, several metres deep. All minor features were now gone - South Wales was beginning to feel a little more wild and remote. We battled through the snow and managed to do 16km before our deadline return time. The group did well with their nav.
This week the SAS selection has started in the Brecon Beacons. The traditional Fan Dance (Tour of the greater Pen y Fan horseshoe) would be more challenging than normal (with a weapon to help them, not an axe!). Best of luck..

South Wales Snow - Lots

Going to work today I crossed the National Park from South to North - and noticed something worrying about the snow, that would affect the whole day. It was moving. During the drive the road progressively disappeared due to the strengthening wind transporting the powder snow and surface crystals - onto the road. We made it to work, to the news that there had been a drifting snow related accident on the A470 near Storey Arms. They closed the A470. Then the news that they closed about 6 other roads due to drifting. The Snow ploughs suddenly got busy - and continued for the rest of the day. Wow - this is South Wales !

Anyway - training continues, so I took 3 of the PT instructors (Cpl Edwards, Cpl Walsh, Cpl Lord) out for a bit of winter training. We had to break trail for miles through deep drifts of snow. When we could escape the drifts we were in the windward side of the hill in the face of the 50mph winds. A good test for their nav. They managed to complete all their nav legs efficiently and get back to the road for a timely pick up.

We got back just before the climbing team who had managed a quick ascent of the Torpantau falls (III). I hope to get there before it melts.

The road home had been ploughed all day, but still it was a very exciting drive. On the side of the road the drifts had built up to over 2m deep. I've decided to get chains !

RAF CPD At RAC Corner

At The Soldier Development Wing (SDW) Milly is on a visit from the RAF. She is a Corporal and a Rock Climbing Leader but is looking for more Professional Development. She wanted to do outdoor climbing, and was expecting to do group sessions on rock, or indoors. Last year nobody would have expected outdoor ice climbing in South Wales this Jan. So I took Milly to RAC corner for her first day on crampons, first day with an axe and we did the grade II climb. A great first winter experience.

May the ice last - but already we can feel the temp rising...