Sabtu, 25 April 2015

Bus Stop Quarry - 14th April

Blast Shelter Crag at Bus Stop Quarry. Biggles Flies Undone starts up the left edge, then right to a couple of footholds, to find a left slanting crack leading left to the top.

On the Saturday, Lena and I head for the slate at Bus Stop Quarry hoping we could stay warm enough to do some climbing, between showers. I manage to just about stay warm enough to lead 'Biggles Flies Undone' (E1 5b). However it was cold enough to wear my belay jacket for the climb. A great little route.

Ardnamurchan

After getting back from North Wales we headed off to Ardnamurchan in Western Scotland. The weather wasn't great but after some showers, there was mostly a dry day on the Saturday so we headed to a close crag and enjoyed the rough Gabbro climbing. On the Sunday we managed to climb quite a bit between the showers. However, Lena still managed to find time to do some Gymnastics between climbs! (Eigg and Rum in the background).

Here's evidence that it did turn out to be a stunning day. Lena warmed up on a few climbs, but then topped her day off with a steep crack line HVS 5a.
Lena topping out on her HVS. Excellent. Another good day of trad...

Cloggy and Bus Stop

On our last day we decided to head up to Cloggy. We didn't know what to try, but decided upon 'Longland's Climb' VS 4c, on the Weat Buttress - not very often climbed these days - apparently - but still a classic. Above Dave is coming up an awkward pitch 2. I chose to belay at the top of the slab - a mistake, because my sport harness is definitely not designed for semi hanging belays! Later when I read the history of the climb, I read that the chockstones (my belay!) were brought up on the first ascent from the ground.
Dave near the top of pitch 2.
Dave heading off. It was an awesome route. unfortunately we didn't have time for a second. So we headed off to Bus Stop Quarry and we led 'Equinox' VS 4c and 'Solstice' HVS 5a. A great end to a productive week. Dave's Blog

Idwal

This time we headed for Idwal slabs for the day. We started on 'Heather Wall' 4c. Above David is on the first pitch of 'Heather Wall'. After this route we got onto Holly Tree Wall and I set off up 'Original Route' VS 5a. Getting into the groove definitely is a problem - until you spot the hidden foothold! At the top of this route we finished our day with David leading us up 'Diagonal Route' VS 5a. David's Blog

Carreg Wastad and Dali's Hole

Today I forget my camera - great. We headed for Carreg Wastad and started on 'Shadow Wall' VS 4c, followed by 'Ribstone Crack' VS 4c and then 'Lion' VS 4c. David's log book was coming along nicely. What next? I wanted some more slate, so we went off to Dali's Hole and I just about led 'Holy, Holy, Holy' E2 5c - a cheeky little (difficult and pumpy) number. Time for a rest... David's Blog

Dinas Mot

This time David and I headed for Dinas Mot. We started on 'Lorraine' 4c. Above David is near the start.
David heads off on the next pitch.
After 'Lorraine' we headed for 'Western Slabs' VS 4c. Dave is enjoying the traverse onto the 4c section above.
After 'Western Slabs' we finished the day with 'The Direct Route' VS 5b. Another great day with incredible dry and warm weather... David's Blog

Dinas Cromlech and Serengeti

Today David and I were joined by Martyn from OB Scotland. We headed for Dinas Cromlech to start the day and 'Sabre Cut' VS 4c (above and below).
David enjoying the second pitch - 4b.
David enjoying the Ab down 'Left Wall'.
Martyn ab'ing with 'Cenetaph Corner' behind.
We moved onto 'Pharoah's Passage' VS 4c. Martyn is enjoying the steep start above, and the wall of the second pitch below.
Martyn getting stuck into the jugs of the second pitch, leading to the arete.
We left Dinas Cromlech looking for a change and went to Serengeti to introduce David to Slate. I started on 'Seams the Same' E1 5b (the RHS crack above), then we wound down on 'Seamstress' VS 4c (Martyn leading it above). David's blog