Kamis, 07 Mei 2015

Rope Skills Evening

Last night Ian and I met down at the Aberdeen sea cliffs for a couple hours of rope skills.

Having a number of years climbing under his belt Ian has not managed to get much time for it recently so was looking to work on setting up bottom rope systems for himself and others.

We managed to cover a lot before the worst of the rain came on, thus putting a halt to the proceedings!

Setting up top rope systems as well as getting back into leading is on the cards for Ian by the looks of it as he did a great job of digesting a load of information in a short period of time!

Rabu, 06 Mei 2015

Trail Cycle Leader

Ben Nevis today
Day 2 of the Trail Cycle Leader course today and we headed for Lochaber and the Witch's Trails. The weather was good again for us today, vertually dry all day (a little graupel at one point!) and still high spring temperatures.

The snow has melted away a little this week, but it's still winter up on the Ben

Paragliding was popular around Lochaber today


We were on the Witch's Trails today, with a quick run on the Skills Loops
We started on the skills loops, but then moved onto the Broomstick Blue, 10 Under the Ben, and some red technical descents. Alistair had a spill, needing a quick visit to the Belford and he came back for lunch with 5 stitches!




On the '10 Under The Ben' route
So it was a great day at the Nevis Range and we saw bikers on the World Cup route. Next weekend is the British Downhill Series at Nevis Range.

Selasa, 05 Mei 2015

Weekend learn to climb outdoors

This weekend I have been out on the crags with Chris and Stuart for an Intro to Outdoor Climbing.  Chris had done a little outdoors before but both have been cranking in the climbing wall for some time.

On Saturday we spent our day at the Pass of Ballater getting some mileage in on the rock and looking at anchor setups for top roping.


Stuart psyched!

Today we headed down to the sea cliffs near Aberdeen to get a taste of what's on offer within a short distance.  To arm the guys with skills that would aid them in getting out on rock without having to lead climb all the time we looked at top and bottom rope setups with multiple multiple anchors (adding to Saturdays work).

Climbing on their own bottom rope setup.


Chris getting gear in.

Leading through the top of the Chimney.

Chris was keen to get a few leads in so we made the most of the reliable rock and enjoyable climbs down at Jade buttress in the afternoon.

Stuart following up.


We were lucky with the weather on Saturday and blessed with sunshine today.  The dolphins were out in force; no photos i'm afraid as my super zoom camera was left in the car... next time!

Urghh....

Bikes in Fort William

Loch Leven
This weekend I'm on my Trail Cycle Leader training course. Today we were based in Ballachulish, and tomorrow we'll be based in Lochaber. I can't think of a better backdrop for the weekend, or a more suitable time of year for the course. This weekend also happens to be the weekend for Maggie's Monster Bike and Hike, and yesterday was the start of the Scottish Six Day Trial (SSDT), based out of Fort William. The whole event is based out of the Fort William West End Car Park - visible from my lounge window. It's fair to say that this is one of the busiest weekends of the year, in Fort William. Everybody seems to be talking about bikes at the moment!

Pap of Glencoe from Ballachulish

Senin, 04 Mei 2015

Coaching Climbing in Glen Nevis


On Thursday I was at the WHC working with students on the ATM degree course - Pete, Sam, Jack, Angus, Dan and Kane. Today they were coaching rock climbing at SW Buttress, Polldubh, Glen Nevis - in HOT HOT sunshine!


Glen Nevis - 1st May

Lena pitch 2 of Pandora**
At the moment we're enjoying some clear skies, little wind and high temperatures in Fort William - so still with barely any midges about it's a good chance to get out and climb.

I'm on Phantom Slab (VS 5a***)
Glen Nevis was busy on the 1st, but in the evening we found nobody on Phantom Slab, which gives excellent well protected 5a climbing.


Minggu, 03 Mei 2015

Ardnamurchan - 29th April

Lena starting Ring of Fire (HVS 5a**)
We all decided to head back to Meall an Fhir-Eoin for our second day (most people's 3rd day). It's a place where everybody can choose a climb to suit them (lots of slabs, walls, corners, and overhanging cracks), and still chat to the neighbouring teams. Lena started on Ring of Fire which is a varied, excellent HVS - on perfect rock again.

Lena on the hand traverse of Ring of Fire
Lena at the finishing wall of Ring of Fire - even though the friction is huge, there are some tricky 5a moves on the last wall.

Clear blue skies, and normally nobody to be seen for miles, but this weekend there were quite a few teams there.
I'm about to do battle with Mirka (E2 5c**)
It was my turn to choose a lead. I'd been eyeing up a steep overhanging crack called Mirka. I normally avoid anything steep, so it was time to work the weakness! Unfortunately, after the climb, steep and overhanging is still my weakness!! After I finished the pitch, Lena walked up it, cleaning the gear on the way, only pausing for the photos!

Matt cruising Mirka (E2 5c**) - later Ken did the same
Lena about to attack the crack of Etna (E1 5b**)
Lena was now looking for a bigger challenge and so it was time for her first E1 - Etna. The steep wall has a crack which has some steep 5b moves - for most people. I can just get my fingers into the upper crack, but for somebody shorter, it is 5c, needing to put in some additional moves to get to the crack!

The crux of Etna was 5b for me because I could easily reach the upper crack holds, but 5c for Lena, doing 5 intermediate moves!
As the skin on the fingers wore out, so time ran out and we had to leave Ardnamurchan, and it's blue skies.

Back to work this week, but after being on a climbing trip for so long, I think I've forgotten what day it is!! At the moment, every day is a Sunnyday in Fort William.