Stob Coire Nam Beith, North Face

Anchor for our abseil
Phil Douthwaite on his abseil

Looking at Glencoe in the background

Day 2 of the Introduction to Snow and Ice climbing. We headed to some low level ice and a short walk in (90 mins) - Stob Coire Nam Beith, North Face. On our way in we saw the normal weekend massive crowds. Some heading to No. 6 gully (not complete or in condition), some to Central Gully (not complete), and others to Church Door Buttress. We had our ice to ourselves until PYB and Phil turned up. My 2 climbers enjoyed learning about the joys of ice at grade 3, and later abseiling off ice..

Looking at SC Gully, Climbing NC Gully

This is SC Gully (III ***). I hope to do this finally next week. There are 3 climbing teams (of 2) climbing it here (you can see 5 of them). There was a team on the top snow slope pitch too - but this is not visible in this photo. On the right hand side, the guys in blue and yellow jackets are on Central Grooves (VII 7 ****).
Can you see the 4 climbers in this photo climbing Raeburn's Route (IV 4 ***), top climber in yellow jacket.

Photo taken from NC Gully. Climbers belayed on Raeburn's Route. Stunning scenery for first half of the day.

I'm working this weekend on a beginners climbers course. I took my 2 climbers into Stob Coire Nan Lochan. I wanted to check out SC Gully that I quickly got to know last March. It's climbable at the moment and had queues on it for the entire morning. I hope to climb it finally this week, can't wait. . .

We headed further over to NC Gully, also with queues, but we timed our approach to take a good position and have no queueing. The climb was in good form. Even though they're beginners they're dead keen, so I had to spice it up with a steep left finish. I think they'll be bored of this grade tomorrow, and they want to learn about ice screws so we'll be looking for ice excitement. Isn't work fun...

Swimming Against Spindrift

Hannah Evans on the approach to Green Gully
After downclimbing the first pitch, we abseiled off

Hannah leading on the gulch ice above CIC

Ian Hey leading round the corner on the gulch ice

Thank you to Ed Chard and Dave Hanna from Jagged Globe. They gave us a lift up to the top car park (Ed) and later back down again (Dave) - saving us a lot of extra walking from the bottom car park. Today I was out with Hannah Evans from Outward Bound - Loch Eil. We had our eyes on one of the routes on Number Three Gully Buttress, or Creag Coire na Ciste. We decided on Green Gully, a popular classic. After a couple of pitches to get to the first ice pitch things were going swimmingly. I was half way up the pitch, when it started - the heavy spindrift, lasting for about a minute at a time, making it impossible to see my axes in my hands, or my hands! After about 4 of these, I was unable to make upward progress, so climbed down :( . We then abseiled off, to fight another day. A team that started earlier than us did manage to avoid this particular volley of falls, and made it to the top of Green Gully. The ice I did was of great climbing quality. A climbing team of 2 set off for No. 2 Gully - hopefully a good outcome for them. Ed Chard climbed North Gully.

We set off for the Gulch above the CIC hut. Hannah led a pitch. We met Ian Hey with his clients. And then met Alan Kimber with his 2 clients - they were successful on Point 5 Gully, reporting gaps in the ice in some places, but a strong lead led to the top.

The weather was as forecast with near whiteout conditions at times. The wind transported a great deal of new snow, and a lot of deep slab has built up. Make your choices tomorrow carefully - SAIS Lochaber, Glencoe.

Ice On Stob Coire Nam Beith

Tony coming up our last pitch

Ed Chard

Ed Chard

I joined Jagged Globe today. Ed Chard was taking out Tony for a day of guiding, so we had an instructor ratio of 2:1 ! Looking for ice, but not exposed to the winds high up, we decided to head for Aonach Dubh, West Face and Stob Coire Nam Beith. We passed No. 6 Gully on the West face, and from across the valley, could see that it wasn't safe to climb. A massive amount of melting has happened in the last 48 hours and especially the last 24 hours. The stream has swollen hughly and is not safely passable in most places without getting a boot full of water, or being swept away. At the end of the day, No. 6 Gully had virtually melted off and was absolutely unclimeable - it was now a waterfall again. Matt and I were lucky to get the last climb yesterday.

Moving up to take a look at Central Gully on Stob Coire Nam Beith - again the entire route was missing or unclimable. The ice where I put my first belay ice screw yesterday (22cm screw) had completely melted and become black rock !
We climbed 2 pitches on the ice left of the direct Central Gully start. PYB also had the same idea - but for bottom roping.

The North Westerly and Northerly winds will continue, and the temp will drop overnight and tomorrow. The freezing level will initially be low down at about 450m. It was 8.3C on Aonach Mor today at 11am, but is already down to -2.3C (5pm). It's forecast to be -5C at the summit of the Ben tomorrow am. Good news to complete this thaw freeze cycle.

Central Gully, Stob Coire Nam Beith, North Face

Stob Coire Nam Beith, North Face. Central Gully is virtually in the centre of the shot, and follows the line is ice up. Deep Cut Chimney is out of condition and can be seen slightly to the right.
Matt Leggett found the small snow house below the North Face

Matt finding some good ice at last

On the crux pitch, the ice was mostly non existent. It became a mixed extravaganza. The easiest way on this occasion was through the chock stones, rather than over! But no space for a bag - that was towed behind! Great fun... I don't think Matt apprecaited having to follow this line!

After our morning fun on No. 6 Gully, on Aonach Dubh, West Face, we decided to extend our day and have a look on the North Face of Stob Coire Nam Beith, hoping to find something hanging in there. We looked at Deep Cut Chimney, hoping it would go, but decided to go for the ice to the side on Central Gully (IV, 4 ***). From the ground we could see the poor quality ice (a gap) on pitch 3, but decided to go for it anyway. The mixed gap proved to be the excitement of the day.

We were still good for time so pushed for the Stob Coire Nam Beith summit, and were still back to the car just after 4pm.

We ate at Clacaig Inn. Matt and Sam emigrate to Papua New Guinea next week. Best wishes to them both.

No. 6 Gully, Aonach Dubh, West Face

Matt Leggett being delicate with the ice

With a report that No. 6 Gully (IV, 4 ***) was just about still there, we thought we'd take advantage of possibly the last day before it all falls apart. We knew we'd better start early to catch the coldest part of the day, so Matt Leggett and I put on headtorches and set off into the dark mist. There are a couple of very thin pieces of neve covering rock, which just about held for us, but they definitely wouldn't have survived another day like Saturday just gone. The ice is thin in many places, you can hear the running water centimetres away!

A great climb - there for us today - probably not there tomorrow!

Stob Coire Nan Lochan

The queue at the beginning of Dorsal Arete, in early afternoon (8 people here)

Stob Coire Nan Lochan. A relatively quiet moment of the day. How many people can you see?

Day 2 of the Winter Mountaineering course. Both teams headed to Stob Coire Nan Lochan for our adventures today. The good weather and stable snow brought the crowds out onto the hills this weekend. All of the popular venues were crowded, car parks full and queues on the most popular climbs. I was with Andrew and Nicola, and we did a journey all over grade 1 ground. I could see queues on other climbs, but I was surprised to see the quantitiy of people on Dorsal Arete, and queueing at a first belay. Lots of them will have been using headtorches today! At Andrew and Nicola's adventures' end, I hope it made for a great honeymoon - they're off to Inverness next.

Winter Mountaineering Day 1

Sunset over Loch Linnhe, from the Hotel, Onich, Nr Fort William

This weekend I'm directing a Mountaineering Course. Today the 2 teams set out for Aonach Mor to learn the skills needed for safe winter mountaineering, and tonight I gave a talk on avalanche awareness. Tomorrow, they'll use all that they learnt on a bigger mountaineering day, taking in an easy climb. The photo shows sunset viewed from the hotel. The weather was great today, with some terrrific views across Loch Eil and Fort William. Everybody had a great day, especially Andrew and Nicola who are on their Honeymoon...

Golden Oldy

Overlooking Easy Gully

A day off without a climbing partner - what do you do - go out, stretch your legs and visit a classic climb. I chose Golden Oldy on the west face of Aonach Mor. It was a good chance to renew my gondola season ticket at the office at 9am (and a good excuse for a late start). At the ticket desk I met the Adventure Peaks climbing team (heading for the Nid area), and the Jagged Globe Winter skills team heading for the summit.

There were 3 other climbers heading for the same destination. We all came to meet to discuss our targets. As a result I had Golden Oldy all to myself.

The climbing was fine. With altitude the snow eventually firmed up, and then reached the point of being frozen, but with a crust on the top and unconsolidated below. In the final run to the top, I found some dubious slab.

On the summit plateau, I met up with Jagged Globe again on their way to the summit, and I met a couple of climbers topping out on Left Twin. Their approach wasn't the abseil, but they had approached from the climbers col - and from their description of the snow - I won't be going there any time soon. The East face approach slopes are known for their avalanche capability. The cornices were enormous and looking very fragile. Easy Gully was not the place to be and there were no climbers anywhere near it.

Scottish Ice

Me !

Today was my first Scottish day of 2010. I joined Chris Walker and his client Kerry. The wind was strong gusting to 75mph and was building slab on NW to NE aspects. So we kept low at about 750m. We found a large mass of ice perfect for our use. We had a great day climbing all over the ice (I must file my axes). Roll on tomorow..

Everybody Loves Canoeing

Are they both enjoying themselves?

Another day training with the army - on the river. They managed to develop all their hard canoe skills, and develop their army core values, so at the end they were allowed some down time to have fun. Awesome. Yes, it was cold...

Now it's time to prepare for Scotland, move into Fort William, and hit the hills. I'll be doing a mix of work and play. The low level ice may have gone - but it's still winter, and there's still lots to do..

14th, Canoeing On A Cold Wye

Another day for canoeing on the river Wye. The river levels were low. All the precipitation has been solid as snow recently. Eventually when it melts the levels will rise.
The scenery is beautiuful and the canoeing, fun..

13th Jan, More Snow, More Nav

Above - reaching the first summit

Below - The marks made by a pheasant on take off - not a snow angel

My turn to take the Soldiers (SUT) out for a winter day. The snow was so deep where it had drifted, it was in places, several metres deep. All minor features were now gone - South Wales was beginning to feel a little more wild and remote. We battled through the snow and managed to do 16km before our deadline return time. The group did well with their nav.
This week the SAS selection has started in the Brecon Beacons. The traditional Fan Dance (Tour of the greater Pen y Fan horseshoe) would be more challenging than normal (with a weapon to help them, not an axe!). Best of luck..

South Wales Snow - Lots

Going to work today I crossed the National Park from South to North - and noticed something worrying about the snow, that would affect the whole day. It was moving. During the drive the road progressively disappeared due to the strengthening wind transporting the powder snow and surface crystals - onto the road. We made it to work, to the news that there had been a drifting snow related accident on the A470 near Storey Arms. They closed the A470. Then the news that they closed about 6 other roads due to drifting. The Snow ploughs suddenly got busy - and continued for the rest of the day. Wow - this is South Wales !

Anyway - training continues, so I took 3 of the PT instructors (Cpl Edwards, Cpl Walsh, Cpl Lord) out for a bit of winter training. We had to break trail for miles through deep drifts of snow. When we could escape the drifts we were in the windward side of the hill in the face of the 50mph winds. A good test for their nav. They managed to complete all their nav legs efficiently and get back to the road for a timely pick up.

We got back just before the climbing team who had managed a quick ascent of the Torpantau falls (III). I hope to get there before it melts.

The road home had been ploughed all day, but still it was a very exciting drive. On the side of the road the drifts had built up to over 2m deep. I've decided to get chains !

RAF CPD At RAC Corner

At The Soldier Development Wing (SDW) Milly is on a visit from the RAF. She is a Corporal and a Rock Climbing Leader but is looking for more Professional Development. She wanted to do outdoor climbing, and was expecting to do group sessions on rock, or indoors. Last year nobody would have expected outdoor ice climbing in South Wales this Jan. So I took Milly to RAC corner for her first day on crampons, first day with an axe and we did the grade II climb. A great first winter experience.

May the ice last - but already we can feel the temp rising...

Craig Cwm-du

Leila having fun

Today (9/01/10) with Leila and Ed we headed for Craig Cwm-du to do the fall we'd heard about but couldn't find in a guide book. So the video above shows the location of our grade III fun. We got there after a late start to find a team of 4 already half way up, but not dropping much ice.

We had great fun and a great day out. The ice was always thick enough for screws, for belays and runners. Well worth a visit.

Iced Up River Wye

Standing on the river Wye at Glasbury.

The river was a slush puppy most of the way down

We got to our access point on the Wye for our canoe day to find ice extending for 10m at some points into the river on each side. I managed to find a point for easy access and so our adventure started. We weren't the only things floating on the river - there were also sheets of ice and sheets of slush. The soldiers found manouvering difficult in places when they were competing with a sheet of ice pushing them about.

We had a fantastic day - one of my most memorable. Last day at work for IO Dunn (Instructional Officer) - best wishes to her for her future.

RAC Corner - In Nick

Russ

I had to go canoeing today and these guys went ice climbing ! But thanks for the report anyway - I gave them my camera, so I was kinda there - not. From the photos and from their reports the ice is fat, in nick, and finally not dripping, or audibly running behind. However the upper steep step has been shortened by all the snow fall - into a little bit of ice bouldering.

Finally fat enough for ice screw runners and belays. It can now withstand all the pounding it'll inevitably get this coming weekend - all South Wales (and South England) ice climbers heading for the few in nick venues that exist - but this one with the shortest walk in....

Ice, But Canoeing Not Climbing

Frozen over !

Working with the Army (SDW) this week - the first challenge is to get to work (33 miles), across the National Park. The next challenge is to deliver canoeing. Lots of venues are frozen solid (maybe we could drill holes and go fishing), but we managed to break the ice where it was thin at our venues.

The groups this week used all the normal venues - Glasbury to Hay, Aberbran to Brecon, the Prom in Brecon and the Brecon Canal.

Unbelievably beautiful scenery and amazing conditions. Some soldiers capsized their canoes on the rivers, but they were drilled well and managed to tough it out (and in most cases stay warm). They're learning how to tough through difficult conditions, and still be committed to the team.

'RAC Corner' - Just About There

'RAC Corner' falls - just about there

Today, was a day to look for ice. Ed and I headed for the Torpantau Falls, but we got stuck on the ice eventually by the Pentwyn Reservoir. We had to bin the idea and head for safer roads. After some scary car ice skating we managed to get out of there, and head to plan B - the RAC corner on the A 470. Everybody has been waiting for this to get in nick. We managed to still be the first on it this morning and check out the ice. It was only just about in condition. We managed to leave all the ice in position for everybody else, coming up behind.

We have high hopes for the mountain roads to clear and the ice to grow over the week, so on the next day off - play can start again.

Pen Y Fan Snow & Climbing Conditions

The mini ridge (II) between the Far Right and Near Right Gully

The East Face (popularly called the North Face) of Pen y Fan started off quiet on New Year's Day. But soon by early morning, there were many keen climbers looking for fun climbing conditions. Several teams headed for Central Gully (III) taking slightly different lines in the upper sections. One team is shown in the video. Other climbers spread out over the other gullies and ridges. My first climb was the ridge between the 2 right hand side gullies.

The ground was frozen, but unfortunately it was frozen without much water content, so there was lots of grass and moss covered in powder topped off with an icy crust. The rock was fully rimed up though. We're still waiting for the fabled South Wales ice climbs to come into condition.

Best wishes everybody for 2010, and safe climbing..

Pen Y Fan on New Year's Day

Martin and Richard with their Free Cafe...

New Year's Day on Pen Y Fan. It was a quiet start to the day, but people started to flock to the hills. I'll write about the climbing later, but thought I'd show what other people were up to today first. Martin and Richard set up the 'Coldest Free Cafe in the UK' at the summit from about noon to late afternoon. They gave out hot (warm) tea and coffee with biscuits. So so many appreciative people... There were hundreds and hundreds of walkers, boarders and sledgers. All had a great day.

A member of the public had a slip on the Pen y Fan main path today. They needed assistance and Mountain rescue and an ambulance were called. The CBMRT (Central Brecons Mountain Rescue Team) quickly got the situation under control. I wish them a speedy recovery. At the turn of the year, I'd like to say thank you, on behalf of all climbers, mountaineers, and members of the public, to all British Mountain Rescue teams for their continuing dedicated hard work..