Pot of Gold and Savage Slit; Multipitch Climbing in the Cairngorms

Ross and Patrick have been busy racking up their climbing mileage on the local sea cliffs and surrounding crags over the last month.  Yesterday they teamed up once again to venture into the hills for some multipitch climbing.

After pouring over the guidebooks (and a few pointers on my part) we set our sights on Pot of gold (Severe) in Coire an t-Sneachda and Savage slit (Severe)**** in Coire an Lochain (the northern corries).  The weather was fantastic with mixed sunshine broken by occasional clouds to keep the temperature manageable.  The still air did bring on the midges at the car park and in the base of the corries so movement up the first pitches was brisk...

Ross starting off on Pot of Gold (Sev).

Patrick approaching the first belay.

Pot of gold was first on the list seeing Ross start his lead of the first pitch at 10am.  We took a more direct start up the slabs rather than approaching from the right (as the guidebook picture may suggest) to avoid the wet rock.  Alternate leads gave Patrick the middle wall to overcome and Ross topped out into the sunshine at midday.  An overlooked route by most this predominantly winter route gives some nice straightforward climbing for ninety metres.

Climbing to the sky.

Ross exiting the top chimney.

Onward to Coira an Lochain over the tops via the summit of Cairn Lochain we went.  For ease we walked down the west side of the corrie and left our bags at the lochan; only carrying climbing kit and a bag for walking boots up to the route.

Climbers on Savage slit (Sev)****

Crystal clear water.

Patrick linking the first and second pitches described in the guidebook.

Having a look down.

Ross a long way down on Savage slit.

Patrick had the first lead and eventually the whole lead of the route climbing in style both in and out of the huge crack which gives the climb it's name.  Since there were no other teams waiting to climb the route we chose to make use of the tat and abseil down to the base of the climb and then back to the bags.

Arriving at the belay.

Patrick bridging above the belay placing his second runner.

In the slit.

Whoever ordered the weather yesterday can keep it up as we could do with plenty more!  Ending the day on a high we made for the car and back to Aberdeen; Ross and Patrick conjuring up their next adventure.

Coire an Lochain Panorama looking north.