Berghaus Gear Testing at GL - 2

Colours from a new jacket on show today

Thursday at GL was day 2 of Winter Skills for the Berghaus team to test their gear. The weather was very different. The cloud level had risen, mostly to above the summits. The wind had dropped even further, and there was due to be be low temps and no additional snow - fantastic. Unfortunatley due to the nature of the deep soft snow we had not found anywhere for ice axe arresting on Wednesday, and the often reliable flat ice of Sneachda and the Lochain path were buried, so no icy crampon work.

A climbing team looking into Coire an t-Sneachda choosing where to go. They followed the crowds to the Mess of Pottage.

We followed the well tracked path into Sneachda, and found that several teams of climbers were already making their way up a select few climbs. There were queues on Hidden Chimney and the Slant.

Mess of Pottage - people on Direct Start to Hidden Chimney, Hidden Chimney, The Slant.

Aladdin's Buttress - a climbing team at the bottom starting on Original Summer Route.

Aladdin's and Fluted Buttresses

Fiacaill Buttress - climbers on Invernookie

We made our way over to the Fiacaill Buttress, and with crampons, and careful route selection we made our way up to the notch to the right of the crag. There was some 'interesting' snow on the way, and Kevin's team in particular was being cautious of slope convexities, where they had found easy deep shears lower down.

Both Kevin's team on the left and my team on the right avoiding the 'interesting' snow in the centre of this slope - which showed some easy deep shears.

Team Berghaus - Loch Morlich behind

Phil. Behind Loch Morlich, there is snow on hills as low as 687m (Craiggowrie)

Angela - with Stob Coire an t-Sneachda behind her head

We made our way over to Stob Coire an t-Sneachda and met lots of climbers topping out from the Mess of Pottage in particular. The climbers were reporting a lot of rime ice on the rock, which could generally be cleared easily, often revealing a clear dry crack beneath. The snow was crusty/cruddy, unconsilidated and covered well frozen turf.

Team Berghaus had a good week, of learning about winter apparel, layering, ventilation, wicking, comfort and function - and having a good measure of early season winter fun along the way.

No. 4 buttress, Coire an Lochain, showing Savage Slit in the middle.

Celebrating a great day on 1141m at the top of the Fiacaill a' Choire Chais

Berghaus Gear Testing At GL

On Wednesday I met up with the Berghaus team at GL who were here to test the new winter season gear. They were split into 4 teams, led by Nathan, Kevin, Sandy and myself. I was with Phil, Joss, Jo, Kirsty, Jordan, Ben and Danny. They had come from Berghaus Outlets all over the UK, as well as Head Office. We got ourselves kitted up from head to foot in Berghaus finery and went out to hit the snow.

Phil walking through the white

The cloud level was below 600m and so we instantly had poor visibility when we left the Cairngorm Mountain top car park. This was the first day walking in Scotland for some, and the first adventure walking in snow for others.

Nathans team

The going was hard. I found myself trail breaking all day. The snow had a thin crust on the surface, and when my foot broke through, I would often sink up to my knee. We headed for the twin burns at the back of Coire an Lochain. The steep slope up from here was exciting for the group, especially when Ben had a mini slip and his self belay held him.

Where's my hat?

Sarah, Angela and Phil

Joss leading the way to the 1083m spot height.

We got as far as the 1083m spot height, west of Cairn Lochan, and then the group practiced their nav back to the bus. There was a huge amount of rime on Wednesday, from the northerly winds. The rime was over 30-40cm long in places. I was thinking about Thursday - the last of their Winter Skills days, and where to take them. I had already decided to make life easier for them (and myself), by partly using tracks that had already been made by people on the Wednesday.

Jordan checking out the size of the rime ice

Glenmore Lodge

Rich placing some good gear at Kingussie Crag on Sunday

After a busy few weeks at Outward Bound, this weekend I had a change of scenery working at Glenmore Lodge. On Saturday I ran a 'Movement on Rock' course with 5 people. We started at the Glenmore Lodge wall, looking at balance, centre of gravity, how to transition from shape to shape, and climbing efficiently. We then moved outdoors into the good weather and warm rock to put it all into practice with peer coaching and video feedback. We explored how to move more confidently, tested the rock friction to the point of failure, and a few ideas for mental preparation.

Rich safely abseiling at the Glenmore Lodge Wall

On Sunday I ran a 'Safe Ropework & Gear Placement' course with 6 people. We atarted outdoors at Kingussie Crag looking at anchors and gear placements. The weather quickly deteriorated. The wind soon proved to me more than we could safely handle at the top of a crag, so we headed back to the Lodge for the rest of the course, to look at safe ropework.

Peter confidently abseiling

Safe ropework at Glenmore Lodge

We soon ran out of time, but we managed to cover a great deal of ground, and hopefully 6 people with safe climbing futures walked out of Glenmore Lodge at the end of the day.

ML Exped In The Sun

Future mountain leaders - Ab, Nadine, Lachie, Norm, Colin and Logan - heading towards Carn Dearg 945m

The Glenmore Lodge ML training team set out on exped on Friday to the Monadhliath Mountains. We weren't worried about rain, but we did have to plaster on layers of suncream, and stop at every stream to drink it dry, to avoid drying out in the soaring heat.

Ab working hard in the heat

Ab and Lachie happy in the snow

Camping at 860m

We arrived at camp and had lots of time to eat, re-hydrate and even sleep, waiting for darkness. We started our night nav at about 10.15pm still with good light, and even when we finished at midnight, there was still some light from the cresent moon.

About 10.30pm - We had to wait a long time to get anything like darkness last night

It was bright daylight again just after 4am - and already the temp was rising. The suncream and shades went on before 9am!

Colin and Logan getting their nav spot on

Nadine watching the massive herd of deer

We were in for a treat on our way down the hill - we saw a massive hear of deer move over the hill - up to 400 deer perhaps!!

A great course for everybody - hopefully everybody will successfully move on to their assessment without waiting too long.

ML Day 4

Lachie going for a swim

Today on the ML training course at Glenmore Lodge we looked at emergency scenarios, improvised rescues, water hazards, route planning, equipment choice and campcraft. Luckily it was a hot day, reaching temperatures of up to 26 degrees at times (in Fort William!) - so a perfect day for going for a swim in the stream.

Jamie planning a safe river crossing

Ab leading a 'line astern' river crossing

A group crossing

An improvised carry

Coire an Lochain today

The cloud level rose during the day to reveal the northern corries which are looking progressively more stripped through the week. Hopefully soon we'll be able to get back to summer cragging in the high hills.

Security on Steep Ground

Ben Vrackie near Pitlochry

Today on the Summer ML training course at Glenmore Lodge, we took a day to look at security, group management, and leadership styles on steep ground. With the snow still present on the Cairngorm high hills, we got an early start and headed off to Pitlochry and Ben Vrackie. This is an excellent venue, and we used the journey to the steep ground to maintain the themes of looking at the environment and navigation.

Group management through steep ground

Looking down the steep ground of Ben Vrackie at Loch a Choire

The Northern Corries - the snow is melting fast in this heat

Cairngorm Mountain today

SML Training Course - Ropework

Coire an Lochain today

Today was day 2 of the Summer Mountain Leader Training course at Glenmore Lodge. Today we focused largely on emergency ropework, navigation and the environment. The day started of with fantastic sunshine, and the temperatures soared through the day. During the day the snow line was visibly receeding - and there is a marked diference between the snow of today and yesterday. The snow still remains down to 850m however, so we are still unable to access the Cairngorm plateau for the Summer ML training.

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Coire an Lochain yesterday

Cairngorm Mountain today

Cairngorm Mountain yesterday

Colin and Logan being secure on steep ground

Shaun busy body belaying

Nicola doing a SA abseil - the 'New Classic'

Summer Mountain Leader Training - Expedition

Camping at 450m

Days 5 and 6 of the Summer Mountain Leader Training Course at Glenmore Lodge was the Expedition with Bill and Sandy. There was snow on the hills all week, but driving to work on Friday, to Aviemore from Inverness, we passed a working snow plough and at the highest point of the A9 there was about 10cm of lying snow beside the road. At Glenmore Lodge the expedition plan changed again to an even lower altitude to avoid the growing winter conditions.

Sandy and Bill

Summer Mountain Leader Training with some almost wintry weather

The group did well dealing with the conditions. Even though there was snow, the visibility didn't deteriorate too much at any point.

Meall Chuaich (munro, meaning Hill of the Quaich) on the left with Loch Cuaich

Feshie Hills covered on snow

Cladonia lichen - Cladonia arbuscula - Most common in the alpine zone towards the east

The first day went well and then at about 10.15pm when it was finally dark we managed to get out to do night navigation until 1.20am. Back at the tents we enjoyed a clear sky and good views of the stars and a great view of Venus.

All the group did really well during the course, and I think some of them will be booking an assessment course for later this year, with some others for next year.