Working again today on an Improvers Climbing Course, my climbers wanted to learn how to become self sufficient so they could go on to climb by themselves for the next few days. I chose Curved Ridge as the perfect place to learn. We looked at various methods of making winter belays, and winter belaying, pitching, moving together and being efficient during the day. Faff less - climb more.
The route was in the best condition I've ever seen it. At the end of the approach (below and right of the tree), there is still the 30m grade 3 ice pitch - it wasn't there last year. This was such a bonus of climbing, even before the route had started. In addition at the start of the route there is still the 10m ice pitch. There is such a great deal of snow on the route at the moment, and after the recent thaw/freeze cycles the neve is of reasonable quality. The cracks are easily cleared, and not iced up - easy to find belays, and gear. The crux pitches are good sport at the moment, and the current conditions find them in terrific grade 3 form.
Despite the reasonable SAIS category 2 hazard forecast for Glencoe, the upper snow bowl below Crowberry tower felt suspect, so care was taken.
A great route, not always in these conditions. Get on it this week, before it changes.
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