Lena on a steep bit before the peg belay. The belay was fully buried in ice. I dug out half of it.
Lena discovers her axes are blunt
I was keen to check out the East face of Aonach Mor. I was with Lena from Outward Bound, Loch Eil. We found PYB out and about on Aonach Mor as well - some were heading for Morwind. We abseiled down into Easy Gully - the Cornice was solid but undercut. We found White Shark and made a start. It's graded IV, 4 and earns every penny, steep and exciting. The first good stretch of climbing ends at a good peg belay on the left. This was followed by the steepest section, the steep ice fall up the corner, up onto easier ground. There is currently no gap in the enormous cornice, so I arranged a couple of abseils and got off. We knew we'd have trouble climbing out of Easy, so we traversed off and made the Gondola. The climb earns all it's 3 stars.
The crag currently has large cornices capping most climbs. In many places they're forming a roof of several metres. We found another team abseiling out of Jet Stream due to cornice trouble.
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