Forgotten Twin, Aonach Mor

Looking up at the team ahead of us on pitch 2

Looking down on Josef and Angus at the peg belay at the end of pitch 2

Looking up at the cornice at the end of pitch 3. There is a notch left of centre to make it possible to exit - this was the crux of the climb

Check out the Fort William Mountain Festival. This weekend I'm working on the climbing workshops for the festival through Abacus Mountaineering.

I met Josef and Angus at the Nevis Range. This was to be Josefs' first day in crampons and he was up for a climbing adventure. We headed for the East Face of Aonach Mor and checked out the safe exits through the cornices. We abseiled down Easy Gully, and made our way to Forgotten Twin which has got the icefall start on the left - in condition at the moment. We were the second party in the climb. There was a constant stream of parties on most of the popular climbs. We had a fun exit through the cornice.

The was also a stream of teams in Right Twin - but there is currently no exit. The first team reached the cornice and fortunately received a rescue from a climbing team above - and so the rescues continued - this ream rescues the next, and then these the next.