Jumat, 31 Juli 2015

Final days of July

I've spent today up at Glenmore Lodge with a friend of mine that I met on my MIA training last year; Stu.

On Friday Sam, Stuart and I made our way for an afternoon of climbing at the Pass of Ballater.  Routes including Stinker, Black Custard, Lucky strike, Right hand crack and Ping pong were climbed as this was Stuarts' first visit to the crag.

Sam finished the day off with a brilliant lead on Original Route (VS 5a**) that was approached and climbed with composure, style and finesse (if only the rest of us copuld do the same!!).

The camera didn't come out but a sneaky few pics were taken of me leading Stinker (E1 5b*); I've lost count of the ascents I've made of some of these climbs.  When I have convinced my phone to let me upload the photos I'll post them.  in the mean time here's some pics of Stuart on todays action in the rain.

Stuart attempting to push over the fingers!

"Can I get down now? It's kinda windy!"

Today Stuart and I aimed to get onto the elusive Magic Crack but yet again we were disappointed.  Not because of crowds but due to the bad weather and frequent showers.  Instead we took the opportunity to polish off our flora knowledge and took the easy option of climbing Fingers Ridge (Diff*).  We topped out for some food and then bumbled a bout the plateau looking for very random indistinguishable features for our navigation exercise.

Well off to be, another day of polishing those key skills tomorrow!

Fort William Sunset

Fort William tonight

Robinwood On Skye















La Grave To Le Casset Via Col d'Arsine

Working with Jason, James and the Darwin Explorer Scout Unit on on Day 1 of the Gold D of E Expedition Assessment. We reduced the day down to only 21km but still with the big ascent! Here the first group is approaching the Col d'Arsine which is just over 2400m.
Views from the col... Dreaming of climbing!
I mistakenly didn't bring my guide books to read whilst I was waiting!
Thanks to James for these 2 photos...
Great photos of the Marmots in their home territory, waiting for us to leave!
At this point I was wanting my swim shorts... On the descent after the col we came across this amazing blue pool - nobody in it!
Peter, George, Izzy, Jess
Phil, Tom, Becky, Charlie, Mandy
Jason taking the photo below...
Chris, Amy, Emily, James
NO navigation errors today.. Well done to the 3 teams... They're well on course for success..
After the 21km the teams were relieved to get to the campsite (a real campsite, unlike the wild camp tomorrow night). Just after the tents were up the first clap of thunder came form a threatening sky - but I think it was passing by :) ... The teams were sizing up their evening meal and checking feet when we left... Tomorrow is due to start with another steep ascent -finally heading for an exciting wild camp under the stars ... Awesome..

Pot of Gold and Savage Slit; Multipitch Climbing in the Cairngorms

Ross and Patrick have been busy racking up their climbing mileage on the local sea cliffs and surrounding crags over the last month.  Yesterday they teamed up once again to venture into the hills for some multipitch climbing.

After pouring over the guidebooks (and a few pointers on my part) we set our sights on Pot of gold (Severe) in Coire an t-Sneachda and Savage slit (Severe)**** in Coire an Lochain (the northern corries).  The weather was fantastic with mixed sunshine broken by occasional clouds to keep the temperature manageable.  The still air did bring on the midges at the car park and in the base of the corries so movement up the first pitches was brisk...

Ross starting off on Pot of Gold (Sev).

Patrick approaching the first belay.

Pot of gold was first on the list seeing Ross start his lead of the first pitch at 10am.  We took a more direct start up the slabs rather than approaching from the right (as the guidebook picture may suggest) to avoid the wet rock.  Alternate leads gave Patrick the middle wall to overcome and Ross topped out into the sunshine at midday.  An overlooked route by most this predominantly winter route gives some nice straightforward climbing for ninety metres.


Climbing to the sky.



Ross exiting the top chimney.

Onward to Coira an Lochain over the tops via the summit of Cairn Lochain we went.  For ease we walked down the west side of the corrie and left our bags at the lochan; only carrying climbing kit and a bag for walking boots up to the route.

Climbers on Savage slit (Sev)****

Crystal clear water.

Patrick linking the first and second pitches described in the guidebook.



Having a look down.

Ross a long way down on Savage slit.


Patrick had the first lead and eventually the whole lead of the route climbing in style both in and out of the huge crack which gives the climb it's name.  Since there were no other teams waiting to climb the route we chose to make use of the tat and abseil down to the base of the climb and then back to the bags.

Arriving at the belay.

Patrick bridging above the belay placing his second runner.

In the slit.


Whoever ordered the weather yesterday can keep it up as we could do with plenty more!  Ending the day on a high we made for the car and back to Aberdeen; Ross and Patrick conjuring up their next adventure.

Coire an Lochain Panorama looking north.

Kamis, 30 Juli 2015

La Grave

Excuse the photo, but I didn't get a chance to get any of the awesome scenery today..

I managed to catch the 7am Friday ferry in Dover and so get to La Grave (1400m in ) in good time last night, ready for work this morning. I'm working with Jason Wilkes and the Darwin Explorer Scout Unit from the Solihull County Scouts. The 3 groups are ready for their Gold Duke of Edinburgh assessed expedition over the next 4 days and it is set to be challenging! Tomorrow they have nearly 1000m of ascent over the 23km day. I can't wait to stretch my legs... We had a day of planning and kit prep today, as well as a little area exploration. If I could have got here earlier, I could have gone on a local via ferrata (I'll try and make time for it this week).

Gorgewalking

On Thursday, still working for Trewern OEC, I took the group gorgewalking to the Sychryd river gorge, as shown in the map above. Surprisingly there were not many groups there, good for me, but I think they may have all been paddling on the Wye - a very busy day apparently! So I had the entire gorge almost to myself.
The first small intro jump.
Crawling behind the waterfall to the second jump.
We did 3 jumps in all, but the group were left wanting more - awesome - come back next year.
So this was my last day working at Trewern. I immediately packed my wet stuff and headed off to London, for a quick few hours sleep before my 7am Dover ferry on Friday, for my journey to La grave, to start work on Sat am ....