Craig Caerfai - 21st April

The beginning of Orogeny

We were searching for sun, clear skies and an end to the rain at the end of April. North Wales was still cold and wet, so we headed down to South Wales and chose Craig Caerfai in Pembrokeshire to start. However, a University climbing club had also chosen the same crag, so it was busy busy. Liking slabs, I started on Orogeny (E2 5b**). The climbing is thin to start, but the rock was perfect.

Gaining the arete high on Orogeny

Lena on Nameless (VS 4c*) on the main slab

After the main University crowd had moved on for lunch, Lena finally got onto Nameless on the main slab - and found it straightforward.

The top of Nameless

I'm on Unknown Sentry

I had a second climb on Unknown Sentry (HVS 5a*). This was a great slab to start and then a steep cracked wall to finish - really nice, on perfect rock.

The top of Unknown Sentry

Lena starting Submarine Slab (VS 4b)

We had one last climb for the day when Lena got onto Submarine Slab. This was fine, until the final wall, which is totally unprotected (reason for the VS) - Lena had to stay calm and climb relaxed.

Submarine Slab

So after a brilliant day in the sun with clear blue skies, we were glad we had left the rain of North Wales to search out dry rock. (Unfortunately it didn't stay this way!).

Ben Nevis

Today I was working alongside Scott. We met our group of 18 early in the morning. This is day 1 of their 3 day challenge to do 'The 3 Peaks'... We got to the top in good time - the group were excited to find the snow and the fantastic views. We managed to beat the main Holiday crowds - which were coming up en mass as we were going down..

We managed to get the top to ourselves for a few essential photos...

On the way down, the crowds are beginning to build on the path..

Fun on the snow on the way down. It was a great day in the heat of the sun - Another awesome day on the Ben - surely they're all like that?!!!

Winter On The Cuillin Ridge (AMI Workshop)

The Cuillin Ridge in winter conditions

Association of Mountaineering Instructors - AMI

This weekend was a chance to take part in the AMI Cuillin Workshops on Skye. The workshop I attended run by Derek Bain, was to discuss working on the Cuillin Ridge Traverse in summer conditions. On Derek's workshop, besides myself were Monty, Iain and Karl. We knew there was still snow on the ridge, so we took our winter kit, but didn't quite know how much to expect. Saturday started with poor vis, but as soon as we hit the ridge, the mists cleared and we had a few hours of great weather and reasonable snow conditions. The weather turned at the end of the day, as the clouds descended again, and the rain started. The winds picked up through the night and Sunday turned out to be a very different weather beast - more snow and rain on reasonably strong winds.

One of my top dozen winter days this 12-13 winter season (in late April!). Excellent.

Loch Coir a' Ghrunnda

Approaching the Castle from Sgurr nan Eag

The Castle

Starting the traverse to Sgurr Dubh Mor

The scrambling is normally easy in summer, but under the snow and ice a great deal of care was needed

Some steep wintery scrambling

Sgurr nan Eag was really popular on Saturday with 10-15 people on the tops

See our footprints on the left of shot. The snow made a little of the going easier, freezing the loose boulders/scree together

Gars-bheinn to Sgurr nan Eag

Sgurr Alasdair to the middle of the ridge

The end of the ridge to Sgurr nan Gillean

Firm snow up to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn

Up to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn, from Sgurr Dugh Mor from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

A look around at the Cuillin Ridge from the top of Sgurr Dubh as Da Bheinn from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

One of the ridges bivvy spots - some snow clearing needed!

Thank you Derek B., Sandy P., and AMI.

Unicorn

Today I joined Ken Applegate for a trip up to Stob Coire nan Lochan to do 'Unicorn' E1 5a,5a,5a,5a ***on the central buttress. It can be seen in the above photo left of the deep shadowed gully (SC gully). It's the obvious straight vertical corner left of SC Gully.

Ken was up first for the first pitch, definitely the crux - probably 5b. Above Ken has just started. Later the climbing involves some traditional thrutching, bridging, back/footing and some thin moves to get to the belay - awesome..

Here Ken is doing the thinnest move to get back into the corner..

I was up - and led the amazing corner, which just keeps going. Luckily there were lots of jugs, crimps, cracks and chances to bridge and rest. It was awesome and gave me a chance to reflect on the winter grade of VIII,8*** - not for me!

Some of the moves are a little thin, but soon another edge appears. Fun, fun..

Crampon scratches everywhere! Some loose blocks and flakes - we both did a 2 handed pull on the flake above Ken's head.

Ken's turn to warm up on the last pitch. He passes an ancient belay, over the edge, passes a million loose rocks and ascends a steep final chimney leading the way ot the sun ...

Our view of the Ben - definitely a spring appearance..

Ken leading the way down to our bags, way below. Amazing scenery today, and such high temperatures. Even now at 10pm it's 12 degrees in Fort William! Ken's Blog

Craig Bwlch Y Moch - 16th April

Lena starting pitch 2 of Grim Wall

Lena climbing in the sun and a t-shirt - Wales or Spain?

The 16th April in North Wales turned out to be a pretty good day. We managed to snatch a couple of climbs at Tremadog, avoiding the colder weather of the higher crags. We were initially able to climb in t-shirts, but then by afternoon, the temperature fell and more clothing was needed to keep going - until eventually I froze! We started with Lena leading Grim Wall (VS 4c**)

Lena cruising up the steep wall to the top

Lena did well working out the guide book route for the top pitch, getting through the mini roofs, to the exciting steep finish - a great climb.

I'm at the beginning of pitch 1 of Grim Wall Direct

I liked the look of Grim Wall Direct (E1 5b**) as our next climb. This was definitely a tricky crack to start with, but the wide bridge out right helped.

Pitch 1 turned out to be excellent

Pitch 2 was also good, but by now thew hot sun had disappeared and I was cold!

I was cold when I got to pitch 2, so this turned out to be a struggle, especially when I saw the few other climbers, leave for belay jackets, or indoors! Another great day, in almost great weather.

Craig Y Castell - 15th April

Pitch 1 of One Step in the Crowds

At last in the uncertain North Wales weather there was a day of sun and clear skies and it was initially warm. At last a good day to get out and climb. It was however still too cold for the higher crags, so we headed for the less busy crag of Craig y Castell in Tremadog. One Step in the Crowds (E1 5b) looked brilliant so we set off. When I got to the sloping ledge after the first roof, I wanted to see Lena having fun climbing, so split the first pitch into 2 here and belayed. The second half of this pitch was also great, moving around the larger overhang to the ledge above. Things got easier now, on the top pitch and the slabby finish was a little thin at the end! A really good climb.

New Website!

I'm almost finished revitalising my website.  Well, in actual fact its a complete new site!  There's still some work to be done but you can get the idea.  Check it out at www.nemountain.co.uk.