Unicorn

Today I joined Ken Applegate for a trip up to Stob Coire nan Lochan to do 'Unicorn' E1 5a,5a,5a,5a ***on the central buttress. It can be seen in the above photo left of the deep shadowed gully (SC gully). It's the obvious straight vertical corner left of SC Gully.

Ken was up first for the first pitch, definitely the crux - probably 5b. Above Ken has just started. Later the climbing involves some traditional thrutching, bridging, back/footing and some thin moves to get to the belay - awesome..

Here Ken is doing the thinnest move to get back into the corner..

I was up - and led the amazing corner, which just keeps going. Luckily there were lots of jugs, crimps, cracks and chances to bridge and rest. It was awesome and gave me a chance to reflect on the winter grade of VIII,8*** - not for me!

Some of the moves are a little thin, but soon another edge appears. Fun, fun..

Crampon scratches everywhere! Some loose blocks and flakes - we both did a 2 handed pull on the flake above Ken's head.

Ken's turn to warm up on the last pitch. He passes an ancient belay, over the edge, passes a million loose rocks and ascends a steep final chimney leading the way ot the sun ...

Our view of the Ben - definitely a spring appearance..

Ken leading the way down to our bags, way below. Amazing scenery today, and such high temperatures. Even now at 10pm it's 12 degrees in Fort William! Ken's Blog