Jumat, 17 April 2015

Plan C

Well,  as the title suggests yesterday was a day of compromises.  Derek and I were aiming our sights at The Needle on the Shelterstone crag.  Unfortunately this was not to be; the second crux pitch in the middle of the route was obviously wet.  A dark patch in the shade and a glistening coating on the rock in the sunshine.


So, after a quick alteration of the plan (moving to plan B); we made for Stac an Faraidh along the shores of Loch Avon.  We held hope for maybe one or two good lines being dry amongst the seeping.  
This was not to be as we were again presented with large streaks of damp and somewhat more running water than expected.  We weren't too shocked as the crag has a good slop above it providing higher quantities of melt water.

Plan C it was (we even had a plan D!); Stag rocks.  Monarch of the Glen or Windchill was our aim.  Saving some faff we opted for Windchill (HVS*) up the front of the crag next to Sand Pyper Direct that I was on last week.  


Setting off.


At belay 1 on Windchill (HVS*).

This proved to be another interesting and enjoyable route with a few cheeky surprises higher up.  Derek really 'enjoyed' the recurring mantle moves along the way on flat ledges and slopers.








Looking.

Aiming.

Focus.

We picked some challenging lines whilst keeping to the route as much as possible.  Higher up the final steep moves provided some entertainment pulling up through a roof on hollow blocks that Derek maintains were 'wedged' in at the back.  Unfortunately for him; mid moves through the difficulties Derek managed to get cramp in his thumb of all places and therefore had to relinquish the lead to me.  A quick down climb to the belay and a swap over I pushed on through into the final crack section.

Derek before the cramp set in on the final crux through the steep moves.

Overall this route was very enjoyable giving some nice granite slabs lower down and some steeper moves higher up through varying terrain.

An abseil down the central depression in the crag positioned us at the bottom and back to the bags.  All that was left was to march back up onto the plateau and down the Chais ski area via 1141.

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