Paying the Sand Pyper

I was away last week having some  family time.  I managed to squeeze some climbing in too so here's post one of two from some of the exploits.

Friday gave Stuart and I a chance to head to the South facing gem; Stag Rocks. I spent a lot of time on or near  the crag in the early season last year whilst many other crags were bounded by problematic snow approaches or head walls.

The Longbow crag of Stag Rocks.  Sand Pyper Direct (HVS**) goes vaguely up the centre of the crag.

The voices in my head became louder and louder as our sun drenched approach neared its end.  'Sandy Pyper' they were saying in an ever convincing manner!  Who was I to argue?

Stuart mid pitch on the start of Sand Pyper Direct (HVS**).

The weather held all day despite our reserved paranoia thus giving us some real warmth in the sun broken from time to time by the cool light winds.

Stuart led the first pitch (two of the guidebook pitches in one) but veered slightly off route.  A quick return by way of some interesting maneuverers we were back on track.  Never keen on returning to the bottom of the crag if we can help it both of us were climbing with our sacs.  This added a little more excitement to balance and power required for the climb.  I eventually relinquished my bag three quarters of the way up the second 4c pitch to mace a long reach on undercuts and smears to a damp sloper.  The only water we encountered on the route was at this critical point!
Without the bag I made the reach and continued to climb in my ape like style whenever offered a hanging lip to climb.

Getting back on track.

(A long time ago in a galaxy) A long way away.

Stuart at the belay.

Me with the Shelterstone crag in the background.

Balancing on the crimps.

Almost at the top of pitch 4. One more and some scrambling to do!

I led the remaining pitches and typically the crux pitch felt easier than expected even with a bag on my back!  We topped out in good time after the remaining scramble had been dealt with.  The Stag Rock crag really gives you a great view of the surrounding Cairngorm area.  Maybe not the furthest view but given that you can see to Bennachie, Ben Avon and Ben Macdhui.  in closer proximity you are greeted with fantastic crags such as Creag a Choire Etchachan, Carn Etchachan and the Shelterstone holding its' citadel walls begging to be breached!

Loch Avon panorama.