Slingsby's Chimney / North East Buttress

Looking over at Singsby's Chimney and the Minus Face

Today Matt Lander and I made our way up Ben Nevis to try and do North East Buttress via Slingsby's Chimney. The weather suggested it would be dry with little precipitation, with a chance of some sun, with light winds - we weren't quite so lucky - it snowed most of the day with winds sometimes up to 20mph, no sun, and at the top of the Ben zero visibility. We chose Slingsby's Chimney because we thought it might save time, and be more interesting, the guide book suggested a grade of II/III. The upper fan was a hard tech IV in places! The ridge was great above, and every pitch had interesting climbing. I'd never climbed the 'Mantrap' or the '40ft Corner' before but read much about the history of the climb, so I was excited to get my turn on these obstacles. The 'Mantrap' is easier these days with modern tools, but still tech V, the Corner was about tech IV. A brilliant climb in good condition, with great variety - easily 4 stars..

I'm walking over to the start of the Chimney. Zero gully and the start to Orion Direct above.

The grade II start to Slingsby's Chimney

Matt

There was another roped team in the Chimney at the same time (there were only about 5 teams on the entire hill - and unbelievable 1 of these was on the same route as us, taking the same starting option as us, at exactly the same time as us - what are the chances!). This upper pitch of Slingsby's was top end tech IV today!

Matt on the top moves of Slingsby's

Starting up the ridge from th first platform

Matt leads round the corner up the next pitch

Matt about ot lead the pitch up to the 'Mantrap'

Matt at the 'Mantrap'

I'm starting up the 'Mantrap' pitch. There are brilliant hooks for both axes, which you can just pull up on, then lock off on, sort the feet out, place gear, and pull over the top - absolutely brilliant - tech V.

Locking off the hook on the right arm

Matt starts up the '40ft Corner'

Matt finishes the corner

The corner is in great winter condition - lots of ice and consolidated snow - brilliant

I'm finishing up the '40ft Corner'

About to move up the last pitch

We found another last pitch, which was to climb up the shelter