Valle dell' Orco - Droide - Moslty About The Cracks

I'm on Onda Lunare (6c). It climbs the left hand side of the arete - the arete is shown in the next photo. Unbelievable feature - I didn't make it to the top - my crimp strength gave out on me

On Thursday night James Thacker, Alison Culshaw and I arrived late in Valle dell' Orco - and then it started to rain, and carried on through the night. It must have stopped in the night and we woke up to a wet misty morning on the Friday - a good excuse for a late start. The rock dried out very quickly. So on Friday we mostly climbed slabs (last blog entry), but on the Saturday we went to Droide to try a single pitch venue with lots to go at - as long as you like something steep or cracks! Learn how to tape your hands!

We started on the 6a+ of Diedroladruid, which was terrific. We all climbed it differently, with James using a good deal of jamming, but Alison and I using about 2 finger locks only.We moved onto the 6b Las' Landra - which was completely different. Brilliant cracks climbing, without the need for jamming - takes you up to a technical sequence to access the last bolt, then a few steep pulls on mostly jugs to the top - amazing. James then went onto 'Un Gancio Per Due Sorelle' left (6b+), which has apparently recently had the bolts removed, so now it is fully trad except the belay - so a rack of cams is needed. James climbed the route, moving through some great sequences, that I tried to take photos of. Alison then followed, making use of her taped hands. I didn't follow, wanting to save my energy for the 6c of Onda Lunare. This route did in the end get the better of me. I did however do a bit of screaming as I was trying to pull down on a little crimp. I didn't find another sequence - so that was the end of that route - left for another time! We finished by doing the great route of Salisalama (5b), because it is good, and also to retrieve the quickdraws on the neighbouring route!

So finished our time in Orco. A quick drive back to Chamonix last night (with a queue at the Mont Blanc tunnel), and now today Alison and I are going to pack to go up to a Hut ready for tomorrow - an early start!

Alison on Salisalama (5b). A great climb on the wall. The arete on the right above  is the same arete in the first photo.

Alison on Diedroladruida (6a+)

I'm on Diedroladruida (6a+). A great split corner. I was taped up for jamming, but managed to climb the route in other ways - only using 2 finger locks. I'm not a fan of jamming!

I am a fan of finding rests where-ever possible, and here it was possible. This is still Diedroladruida

James on Las' Landra (6b) - this is described as a 'beautiful slab with technical exit'

James on Las' Landra

Alison on Las' Landra

I'm on Las' Landra, on the finger crack, before the difficult sequence to access the last bolt, and then steep jugs to the top

James on the trad 'Un Gancio Per Due Sorelle' left. (6b+) - described as 'overhanging jam crack' (no bolts)

James getting involved with the pod before the difficult exit to the overhanging crack above

Happy to have a deep fist jam, and he found a right heel hook

The crack above is nearly wide enough for a partial body jam

Alison on 'Un Gancio Per Due Sorelle' left. (6b+)

Alison fully using her taped up hands to make jams to exit the pod

My new website for Hunter Mountaineering is coming on really well - so watch out for HunterMountaineering.co.uk in about 2 months time