Pinnacle Arete

The light after dawn on the Ben

I met up with Andy Stotesbury again for another headtorch start on the Ben. We decided to go and have a look at the Trident Buttresses. There was a slight dusting of new snow on the black crags, and there was verglas on many rocks.

Looking up Number 5 Gully, showing Carn Dearg Buttress

The mountain was quiet initially, but we saw several teams on Tower Ridge, at least 2 teams in Green Gully, and several teams on Number 3 Gully Buttress.

Andy Stotesbury looking at our route. Creag Coire na Ciste behind.

Douglas Boulder, and the dusted buttresses

Green gully and Number 3 Gully Buttress

Andy starting off on pitch 1 of Pinnacle Arete (IV,4*), at the far right end of the middle terrace, overlooking the steep north wall of the buttress. This turned out to be the crux, at what we estimated to be tech 5/6 and poorly protected.

We did choose Pinnacle arete, even though the book says 'the grade assumes some consolidated snow'. What snow there was, was mostly good neve, the turf was frozen and there was some ice which was good. I used 2 screws on the route, and I was very glad of the bulldog. Going right round the corner and then up to the end of the first pitch turned out to be the, hard at the grade, crux. The rocks were all verglassed, and often the feet were on icy smears. The hooks were good enough, and there was even a jug that you could hold and look at the exposure beneath your feet - to the snow apron below the north face.

Near the end of pitch 1. Looking down the steep north wall of South Trident Buttress. The southern pond of Coire na Ciste, is in the top left corner.

Part of pitch 2

Andy off on pitch 3

From the top of the route looking over to Number 4 Gully, with a couple standing next to the Number 4 gully post.

Another great route on the Ben, and I'd probably give it 2 stars. It was a great chance to hang out at the belays and check out the action in the rest of Coire na Ciste.