Jumat, 07 Agustus 2015

Back on Eagle Ridge (in the wet)

Stu was up my neck of the woods for a second day on Saturday with a hankering for some Cairngorm granite (even though he doesn't like big sloping rock).  To give him the best of a bad day weather wise Eagle Ridge (severe)****; the four star Scottish classic was a fair option.  Sam was also with us since Aila was with her grandparents.

Famous grouse moment?

An ever misty but very warm and midge walk in dropped us into the corrie and up to the base of the route for 11am.  The first pitch is typically wet as it takes a while to dry unlike the rest of the route; yesterday was no exception.  The mist and occasional spit of rain had been keeping the corners wet and greasy.  The higher up we went and the more exposed the climbing was the rock became a lot drier.

Me belaying Stu after leading the first long pitch.

Stu leading into the mist.

Sam tackling one of the very greasy corners.


Sam following up the arete high on Eagle Ridge (Sev)****.


Having run a 50 metre pitch to begin with; I let Stu take over the lead through the easier and somewhat trickier terrain for two pitches that led to the Sentry Box.  A slight squeeze but it was welcomed by both Sam and Stu.  No matter who i'm climbing with on this route I always seem to get perched on the outside of it above the gaping void of Douglas Gibson Gully.


Respite of the Sentry Box.

Clouds lifting over the loch.


Stu at the summit belay.

Sam escaping the mist on the final slab.

A penultimate long pitch  by myself through the crux walls and the final shorter pitch by Stu up the enjoyable slab  led us to the summit plateau.  By the time we were climbing the final pitch the mist had began to clear offering us better views than previously on offer (30 to 40 metres).  Another cracking day adding extra excitement with the wet rock amidst the dry!

Kiss the guns!

Walking in the mist.


Done!

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