Lena Brune and I made our way up to the Tsa Hut (at 2607m), below the W face of the Pt de Tsalion, on the Grands Dents Chain, overlooking the Arolla valley. For the next day we chose as our objective the Red Gendarme (D-), on the West Face. We also decided to extend our day after the climb, to get to the Bertol Hut (at 3311m), at the southern end of the Grands Dents Chain, via the Pointe de Tsalion, Dent de Tsalion, Aiguille de la Tsa, Aiguille glacier, col de la Tsa, Pt de Bertol, Upper Mont Mine glacier and the Col de Bertol. However this meant that we would have to carry crampons, axe, and a few extra things during the climb - hardly a light sac ascent! Above Lena is seen in the prominent steep Red Gendarme chimney.
Just after this section we found a lone peg on the left, in some solid looking rock. This was reassuring because most of the climb seems to be about to fall down - loose massive blocks everywhere.
The 'peg belay' on the 30 degree ledge. The chimney continues for another couple of pitches, before it delivers you to the sun, as you traverse the top of the Gendarme through a little gap. The far side of the gap was in the sun... At last.
Lena climbing on the final pitches before the scree slopes to the summit of the Pt. de Tsalion. The summit of the Red Gendarme can be seen proud in the background (a pile of loose blocks).
After passing the end of the West Ridge of the Dent de Tsalion, we descended to the Aiguille Glacier and the Aiguille de la Tsa. In the photo Lena can be spotted in the shade at the bottom.
Now starting our walk down to the Bertol Hut for an evening hut meal. This time in the afternoon, there was nobody else to be seen - anywhere... We had the entire range to ourselves, quite something considering that the Aiguille de la Tsa is probably the most popular rock climb of the Arolla region, and one of the most well known peaks in the western Valais.
Of course the downside of crossing a glacier at this time of day, is that the snow is very soft and the integrity of crevasse snow bridges is doubtful - so we took care over about 10 soft bridges.
The small col W of Pt. 3372m on the ENE ridge of the Pt de Bertol. About to drop down towards to Hut.
The hut was fairly busy, but now for 2011 they have opened their new toilet block, which is VERY impressive and modern except for the processing of men's wee! - It's just fed down a 10m pipe, causing the whole cliff to smell, until for the rain! Above is the West view of the Bertol Hut, the next morning. The hut can only be accessed from the E or W via a series of ladders. The hut stands exposed at 3311m on a shoulder of the Clocher de Bertol.
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