Jumat, 29 Mei 2015

A day of two halves

Yesterday was a mixture of cloud and warm sunshine in the Northern Cairngorms. Stuart and I headed into Coire an t'Sneachda from the Cairngorm Ski Centre car park just before 9am. After a brisk 40 minute walk we arrived at the foot of the coire.

As the clouds were brushing the top of the buttresses and the rock was very wet we made for Fingers Ridge (Diff) a nice easy option in the wet.


Walkers on the Fiaclle Ridge



After three pitches i topped out and belayed Stuart through the two large 'fingers' that are commonly photographed and obviously give the climb its name. Care should be taken on approach to the Fingers as there are a lot of loose rocks to pass.


A bite to eat and some H2O at the top helped us decide what we were to head for next. The sun was the deciding factor! The hope of dry rock in Lochan or Sneachda was only helped but the top pitch of Fingers Ridge being dry due to the winds hitting it. The crags facing more to the south in the Loch Avon basin were the best bet as the sun was shining over them most of the day.


Stags Rock it was! We descended down the main path leading towards the Shelterstone but cut off the path to skirt the base of the Stag Rocks until we reached Diagonal Gully.
Unfortunately we wasted some time on a couple of routes on which we found ourselves confronted with very wet patches low down therefore forcing us onto something out of the shade.


The chosen climb after the faf was Groove and Rib (Hard Severe) as it would pose few issues even if wet sections.


With a mix of sheltered sections low down and more exposed but certainly not anything to be concerned about (merely airy) this route was a nice alternative to Fingers Ridge as it allowed us to enjoy a nice easy ascent on our rock boots.
Three long pitches later again it was me to top out after Stuart climbed the middle section.


Onward again; the time being 5.30 6ish we headed for the Coire cas ridge to descend down into the Ski area and back to the car. There was even enough energy to jog the last few hundred metres to get the blood pumping once again!


Overall an excellent day with a mix of conditions. Long may the fantastic weather continue.

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