Mother Carey's Kitchen - 24th April

The approach to 'Sea Groove' on 'The White Tower' - a rogue wave had just got us soaked.

We had to wait a couple of days for another great day of blue skies, no rain and fairly warm temps - but it came and so we went to Mother Carey's for some adventure. Low tide was late in the afternoon, so we started with Sea Groove (VS 4b**) on 'The White Tower'. A couple of hours after high tide we scrambled round to the groove, but a rogue wave caught us full on, and made us think we were coasteering! Now all the chalk was useless!

Lena getting started on the beginning of Sea Groove

'Sea Groove' turned out ot be good but not awesome - however the setting could not be better.

Mother Carey's Star Gate. This is the cleft behind Brazen Buttress. Inner Space (HVS 4c***) climbs the left wall in the photo above, until level with the top roof of the cave, then around into a chimneying position - chimney to the chockstone near the lip. Pitch 2 starts with a sqeeze through, above the second chockstone (the top spot of  light in the photo), out, around, then to the top.

Later in the day the tide had gone out enough for us to abseil into the Kitchen and watch somebody on 'Rock Idol'. I wanted a bit of adventure and had always wanted to do 'Inner Space' in 'Star Gate'. We took a look and thought it looked absolutely amazing.

I'm starting up the wall on pitch 1

The first pitch starts up a slimey steep wall, but mostly on big jugs. I immediately realised I needed all the slings I had left in my rucksack at the top! - There were millions of threads and spikes.

I've just got my leg in a wide bridge position onto the far wall

The guidebook says, 'when level with the top of the roof, pull around into a chimneying position'. The second I looked round the corner I was blinded by daylight, being adjusted to the cave light. So rather than swinging round, I bridged out and slowly let my eyes see where I was going (hoping there would be gear for the traverse to the chockstone!).

Finally I got into the chimneying position at the roof of the cave

All the gear (which was all bomber) was at the roof of the cave - so both leader and second were safe! So now more relaxed, I could enjoy the wild position I was in, and the view down to the sea, between my legs.

Back and footing, chimneying, following the roof of the cave towards the chockstone belay

Just about to get to the chockstone

I'd saved a long sling for a possible thread belay around the chockstone, but when I got there, I found I could just use the top of the upper stone as a spike, and sit on the lower stone. A truly 3 star pitch, and one of my most exciting pitches.

Lena seconding with the camera - here is the drop below - with the tide coming in from the left

Lena managed to leave the belay on the ground before the tide had come in, and soon wondered if she was caving or climbing.

A  fairly comfortable stance. The second chockstone turned out to be brilliant for the belay, and the first (lower) stone was good as a platform. The second pitch starts by sqeezing through the gap behind my head and trying to get to a standing position before climbing the corner crack - brilliant!

There wasn't much space at the belay, and I'm glad we weren't a team of 3! So quickly Lena set off through the gap on the way to the top.

Lena arriving at the chockstone belay at the end of all that chimneying

Lena's pitch. She's done the squeeze and got into a standing position, fiddling gear before starting the awkward corner crack

A great climb, and the easiest climb in 'Star Gate'. The next climb on the tick list will be 'Deep Space' which looks even better. At this point, time and tide put an end to our Pembroke climbing for this trip, but it's all still there for next time.