Sabtu, 02 Mei 2015

Swastika

Hannah belayed at the end of her pitch 1 (5a)

I teamed up with Hannah Evans to go to Etive Slabs and do 'Swastika' E2 5a,4b,4c,5a,4c,5a,5c,6a****. Hannah took up pitch 1.
I'm at the end of pitch 2, looking up at pitch 3 - belay or link? Link...

At the end of pitch 3 - looking at Hannah coming over the mini overlap.
Hannah tackling the larger overlap of pitch 4. Good effort, she just found a jug, pulled and found herself on the top - awesome..
Even when Hannah's doing the overhang, there's still time to look around...
Pitch 5 now, and it goes up the first quartz band... Awesome slab climbing.
Hannah on pitch 6 with hardly any gear... Just keep going and trust that friction, and maybe don't look down to see where your last runner is!
Pich 7 now - the 5c large overlap... All you have to do is stick 2 finger tips sideways in a tiny peg scar and do a pull up - or put 1 finger in a tiny cam with 2 of the quadcams in the top scar - and as you pull look at the 2 cams and say - 'stay'. So yes, I was gutted to use this aid...
The 6a final pitch. Thankfully it's well protected, and placing the gear was quite easy.
Unfortunately I didn't have the stamina to clean it, so took rests! Gutted again!
Climbing just before a rest on the 2 cams - never leave home without them!

Just when you think it's all over here is the final fun, laybacking the final corner - 3.5 friend very handy at this point, or just go, go, go for the top jugs ...
There's the jugs. A great climb. Long live this April/May summer...
(Hope it isn't THE summer!!)

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