Ben Nevis

Today I was working alongside Scott. We met our group of 18 early in the morning. This is day 1 of their 3 day challenge to do 'The 3 Peaks'... We got to the top in good time - the group were excited to find the snow and the fantastic views. We managed to beat the main Holiday crowds - which were coming up en mass as we were going down..

We managed to get the top to ourselves for a few essential photos...

On the way down, the crowds are beginning to build on the path..

Fun on the snow on the way down. It was a great day in the heat of the sun - Another awesome day on the Ben - surely they're all like that?!!!

Winter On The Cuillin Ridge (AMI Workshop)

The Cuillin Ridge in winter conditions

Association of Mountaineering Instructors - AMI

This weekend was a chance to take part in the AMI Cuillin Workshops on Skye. The workshop I attended run by Derek Bain, was to discuss working on the Cuillin Ridge Traverse in summer conditions. On Derek's workshop, besides myself were Monty, Iain and Karl. We knew there was still snow on the ridge, so we took our winter kit, but didn't quite know how much to expect. Saturday started with poor vis, but as soon as we hit the ridge, the mists cleared and we had a few hours of great weather and reasonable snow conditions. The weather turned at the end of the day, as the clouds descended again, and the rain started. The winds picked up through the night and Sunday turned out to be a very different weather beast - more snow and rain on reasonably strong winds.

One of my top dozen winter days this 12-13 winter season (in late April!). Excellent.

Loch Coir a' Ghrunnda

Approaching the Castle from Sgurr nan Eag

The Castle

Starting the traverse to Sgurr Dubh Mor

The scrambling is normally easy in summer, but under the snow and ice a great deal of care was needed

Some steep wintery scrambling

Sgurr nan Eag was really popular on Saturday with 10-15 people on the tops

See our footprints on the left of shot. The snow made a little of the going easier, freezing the loose boulders/scree together

Gars-bheinn to Sgurr nan Eag

Sgurr Alasdair to the middle of the ridge

The end of the ridge to Sgurr nan Gillean

Firm snow up to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn

Up to Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn, from Sgurr Dugh Mor from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

A look around at the Cuillin Ridge from the top of Sgurr Dubh as Da Bheinn from Max Hunter on Vimeo.

One of the ridges bivvy spots - some snow clearing needed!

Thank you Derek B., Sandy P., and AMI.

Unicorn

Today I joined Ken Applegate for a trip up to Stob Coire nan Lochan to do 'Unicorn' E1 5a,5a,5a,5a ***on the central buttress. It can be seen in the above photo left of the deep shadowed gully (SC gully). It's the obvious straight vertical corner left of SC Gully.

Ken was up first for the first pitch, definitely the crux - probably 5b. Above Ken has just started. Later the climbing involves some traditional thrutching, bridging, back/footing and some thin moves to get to the belay - awesome..

Here Ken is doing the thinnest move to get back into the corner..

I was up - and led the amazing corner, which just keeps going. Luckily there were lots of jugs, crimps, cracks and chances to bridge and rest. It was awesome and gave me a chance to reflect on the winter grade of VIII,8*** - not for me!

Some of the moves are a little thin, but soon another edge appears. Fun, fun..

Crampon scratches everywhere! Some loose blocks and flakes - we both did a 2 handed pull on the flake above Ken's head.

Ken's turn to warm up on the last pitch. He passes an ancient belay, over the edge, passes a million loose rocks and ascends a steep final chimney leading the way ot the sun ...

Our view of the Ben - definitely a spring appearance..

Ken leading the way down to our bags, way below. Amazing scenery today, and such high temperatures. Even now at 10pm it's 12 degrees in Fort William! Ken's Blog

Craig Bwlch Y Moch - 16th April

Lena starting pitch 2 of Grim Wall

Lena climbing in the sun and a t-shirt - Wales or Spain?

The 16th April in North Wales turned out to be a pretty good day. We managed to snatch a couple of climbs at Tremadog, avoiding the colder weather of the higher crags. We were initially able to climb in t-shirts, but then by afternoon, the temperature fell and more clothing was needed to keep going - until eventually I froze! We started with Lena leading Grim Wall (VS 4c**)

Lena cruising up the steep wall to the top

Lena did well working out the guide book route for the top pitch, getting through the mini roofs, to the exciting steep finish - a great climb.

I'm at the beginning of pitch 1 of Grim Wall Direct

I liked the look of Grim Wall Direct (E1 5b**) as our next climb. This was definitely a tricky crack to start with, but the wide bridge out right helped.

Pitch 1 turned out to be excellent

Pitch 2 was also good, but by now thew hot sun had disappeared and I was cold!

I was cold when I got to pitch 2, so this turned out to be a struggle, especially when I saw the few other climbers, leave for belay jackets, or indoors! Another great day, in almost great weather.

Craig Y Castell - 15th April

Pitch 1 of One Step in the Crowds

At last in the uncertain North Wales weather there was a day of sun and clear skies and it was initially warm. At last a good day to get out and climb. It was however still too cold for the higher crags, so we headed for the less busy crag of Craig y Castell in Tremadog. One Step in the Crowds (E1 5b) looked brilliant so we set off. When I got to the sloping ledge after the first roof, I wanted to see Lena having fun climbing, so split the first pitch into 2 here and belayed. The second half of this pitch was also great, moving around the larger overhang to the ledge above. Things got easier now, on the top pitch and the slabby finish was a little thin at the end! A really good climb.

New Website!

I'm almost finished revitalising my website.  Well, in actual fact its a complete new site!  There's still some work to be done but you can get the idea.  Check it out at www.nemountain.co.uk.

Bus Stop Quarry - 14th April

Blast Shelter Crag at Bus Stop Quarry. Biggles Flies Undone starts up the left edge, then right to a couple of footholds, to find a left slanting crack leading left to the top.

On the Saturday, Lena and I head for the slate at Bus Stop Quarry hoping we could stay warm enough to do some climbing, between showers. I manage to just about stay warm enough to lead 'Biggles Flies Undone' (E1 5b). However it was cold enough to wear my belay jacket for the climb. A great little route.

Ardnamurchan

After getting back from North Wales we headed off to Ardnamurchan in Western Scotland. The weather wasn't great but after some showers, there was mostly a dry day on the Saturday so we headed to a close crag and enjoyed the rough Gabbro climbing. On the Sunday we managed to climb quite a bit between the showers. However, Lena still managed to find time to do some Gymnastics between climbs! (Eigg and Rum in the background).

Here's evidence that it did turn out to be a stunning day. Lena warmed up on a few climbs, but then topped her day off with a steep crack line HVS 5a.

Lena topping out on her HVS. Excellent. Another good day of trad...

Cloggy and Bus Stop

On our last day we decided to head up to Cloggy. We didn't know what to try, but decided upon 'Longland's Climb' VS 4c, on the Weat Buttress - not very often climbed these days - apparently - but still a classic. Above Dave is coming up an awkward pitch 2. I chose to belay at the top of the slab - a mistake, because my sport harness is definitely not designed for semi hanging belays! Later when I read the history of the climb, I read that the chockstones (my belay!) were brought up on the first ascent from the ground.

Dave near the top of pitch 2.

Dave heading off. It was an awesome route. unfortunately we didn't have time for a second. So we headed off to Bus Stop Quarry and we led 'Equinox' VS 4c and 'Solstice' HVS 5a. A great end to a productive week. Dave's Blog

Idwal

This time we headed for Idwal slabs for the day. We started on 'Heather Wall' 4c. Above David is on the first pitch of 'Heather Wall'. After this route we got onto Holly Tree Wall and I set off up 'Original Route' VS 5a. Getting into the groove definitely is a problem - until you spot the hidden foothold! At the top of this route we finished our day with David leading us up 'Diagonal Route' VS 5a. David's Blog

Carreg Wastad and Dali's Hole

Today I forget my camera - great. We headed for Carreg Wastad and started on 'Shadow Wall' VS 4c, followed by 'Ribstone Crack' VS 4c and then 'Lion' VS 4c. David's log book was coming along nicely. What next? I wanted some more slate, so we went off to Dali's Hole and I just about led 'Holy, Holy, Holy' E2 5c - a cheeky little (difficult and pumpy) number. Time for a rest... David's Blog

Dinas Mot

This time David and I headed for Dinas Mot. We started on 'Lorraine' 4c. Above David is near the start.

David heads off on the next pitch.

After 'Lorraine' we headed for 'Western Slabs' VS 4c. Dave is enjoying the traverse onto the 4c section above.

After 'Western Slabs' we finished the day with 'The Direct Route' VS 5b. Another great day with incredible dry and warm weather... David's Blog

Dinas Cromlech and Serengeti

Today David and I were joined by Martyn from OB Scotland. We headed for Dinas Cromlech to start the day and 'Sabre Cut' VS 4c (above and below).

David enjoying the second pitch - 4b.

David enjoying the Ab down 'Left Wall'.

Martyn ab'ing with 'Cenetaph Corner' behind.

We moved onto 'Pharoah's Passage' VS 4c. Martyn is enjoying the steep start above, and the wall of the second pitch below.

Martyn getting stuck into the jugs of the second pitch, leading to the arete.

We left Dinas Cromlech looking for a change and went to Serengeti to introduce David to Slate. I started on 'Seams the Same' E1 5b (the RHS crack above), then we wound down on 'Seamstress' VS 4c (Martyn leading it above). David's blog