A difficult day for snow conditions. But luckily we spotted a possibility for a safe climb on the SW Ridge on the Douglas Boulder. The only problem would be getting off, West side or East side? The guide book says the route is IV,5** starting from the toe of the buttress - so I gave it a go from the toe.. I got part way up the first pitch and decided it wasn't in condition (that means I got scared!) - so came off (left a nut - so go get it someone..), and went up to bypass the section.. Here is Lena in the photo belayed at the new start ! What was left was III,4.
James Thacker did this route on Monday and did this pitch differently, but I led the ropes up the rock groove on the RHS to the cheval move - awkward - awesome..
An airy move ..
Just after this the snow got heavier and started to move off the local buttresses..
Near the top now... So which way down ?
The first ab off into the Douglas Gap.. Here Lena makes her way down..
We couldn't go down the East easier gully because the snow was too twitchy. So we ab'ed down the West. Near the bottom, the buttress sloughed off onto the slopes below - so we decided to ab a little more ! Eventually, but safely we got off..
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