Jet Stream/Direct Finish

Lena on pitch 1 of Jet Stream

I went to Aonach Mor today with Lena, to see what could be climbed in these thawing conditions. We avoided the crowds of climbers on the East Face today by tactically getting a 10.15am Gondola (aka - starting late!). Everybody seemed to be having fun on Jet Stream over the last few days, so today maybe it would be our turn. We nipped down the Climber's Col and headed for Jet Stream and saw Kenny at the top of pitch 1. Almost perfect timing.

On the walk across the tops, we had seen teams topping out from Left Twin and The Split.

Lena about to do the steep last bit of pitch 1.
Kenny Grant's climbing partner (Gordon) starting on pitch 2 above.

Lena set off up the first pitch. The ice was initially a little cruddy, but then firmed up and took screws. It was a little thin in places, but there was a great deal of fat ice still, even after all the recent ascents. It was thawing, but perhaps only slowly.

Lena about to top out on pitch 3

We swapped leads and we took the Direct Finish (IV,5***) option. The ice was good, taking screws, a little cruddy around rocks where it had melted back, but still terrific climbing. The neve was softening but still firmly holding the axes and the ice felt a little chewy. Pitch 3 was Lena's to top out, and the snow on the cornice exit was just firm enough to make life straighforward.

There is still rime ice holding onto the danger sign at the top of the cliff

North Buttress Route (III*) has ice and looks inviting, to the right of Jet Stream

North Buttress Route did look inviting, but on the walk across the tops, I did not notice if it had a friendly cornice exit.

We had time at the bottom of Jet Stream to look at the ice formations on the right hand side - which were visibly dripping!