Backing off

On Friday I picked up Derek nice and early so we could make the most of the promising forecast given for the first half of the day.  the weather was set to close in later in the day and that it did.

Belhaven V,6** moves up the ledges in the foreground and follows the groove in the centre of the photograph.

We arrived in Coire an t' Sneachda in good time after an hours walk in and raring to go.  Belhaven V,6** was the eventual choice after some much needed nibbles.  So up we went to the Fiacalle Buttress area and prepped for the route.

You're happy now; just wait!

The first pitch threw an interesting start at us right away but soon changed into slightly easier climbing if a little poorly protected in places.  Forced higher than i would have liked I set up the belay quite far up the steep corner.

Derek starting up the initial wall.

Derek followed up in style without much difficulty through the toucher thin sections.

Pulling through.

"Where's the holds?"

"Just you wait 'till i get to the belay!"

Unfortunately the second pitch threw a hard choice at me.  Not knowing what was lurking higher up I couldn't tell if the route was going to offer up any protection or good holds.  There was a sheet of thin verglas on the right wall and only a narrow ice trough in the corner.  After moving up a little higher from the belay I managed to ascertain that: a) I couldn't distinguish whether the ominous rounded granite was good enough to get my axes on and that the ice would hold, b) there was no gear whatsoever for quite a distance c) once I had moved up any further I wasn't going to be able to reverse the moves and d) if a fall was to happen then Derek would have a rather new look to himself and his clothes consisting of puncture marks!

So as you may have guessed already I backed down and agreed with Derek to leave it for another day where hopefully the climbing was a bit more generous.  I think the clinching factor was looking at the left hand steep wall and realising that I could romp up that if I could take my crampons and axes off!  I wonder what that says?

The Seam IV,5***

After the abseil down we moved up into The Seam IV,5*** but after getting myself into the first difficulties I had truly had enough and was verging on becoming a bear with a sore head.  Down we climbed again and made for the car beating the incoming poor weather.

The view East from half way up Belhaven towards Cairngorm.

As Derek pointed out in an effort to appease my frustration "The corrie's been there for a few million years; I'm sure it'll be there next week!"

How very true; until next time...