Why we climb

I've finally found 5 minutes to post the weekends action in the Cairngorms.

Stuart and I were pretty much set on heading into Lochnagar on Saturday for some climbing but after and evening pouring over guidebooks for the spark of inspiration we changed our minds and headed up to the Caringorm ski centre for something in the northern sector.  Avoiding the Norries we were looking to get on some good ice whether it easier angled in Lurchers Crag or over at Hells Lum.

Down through the Ski Slopes towards the centre and the cloud inversion.

On the ascent up the Ski road we were shrouded in mist as my excitement began to tarnish slightly but as soon as we reached the centre we passed the ceiling of mist caused by the inversion and were blessed with blue skies (all day!).

Looking South towards Derry Caringrom and Beinn Mheadhoin

A swift walk up (a little harder on Stuart since he was getting rid of a cold) through the Ski runs as the first of the lifts opened provided us with some spectacular views thanks to the superb visibility.

Coire an t' Sneachda

The Shelterstone crag with Carn Etchachan behind.

After reaching the cairn at 1141m we contoured round to the col between Stag Rocks and Hells Lum and began the descent down to the crag.  Being down in the Loch Avon Basin is made even more spectacular due to there normally being very few others down there with you (unlike the Northern Corries!!)

Hells Lum main slabs.

With a party of three on the right hand edge of Hells Lum and another pair geraring up for Brimstone Grooves III,4 we got set up for Slalamander IV,5.  Basking in the sunshine the only complaint I had was the lack of sun tan lotion and T shirts!  All that sunshine does have it's draw backs however as the ice was dripping as we climbed.

Over on Stag Rocks the Cascade main (left) line was incomplete and was an obvious end result of what was happening to the right hand line; a huge almost horizontal crack across the lower fall ultimately leaidng to a complete collapse.  On the left line there had looked to be some reforming in the ice of the lower section but after the sun had been on it this had completey melted.

Left: Stag Rocks (Cascade V,5 bottom left edge of the crag), Centre: Loch Avon under the snow.

Hells Lum itself was in good nick in terms of ice but due to the lying snow you had to look for it and be careful what you were putting a screw into.  We didn't head round but given the surrounding conditions i would put good money on the Chancer being in condition.  I would think a good thaw and better freeze would give some amazing ice formations!

Two climbers (Roy and Barry) climbing Brimstone Grooves III,4.

So, up we went (carefully in places); Stuart leading the first pitch leaving the second (crux) for me to drag my battered body up (long story).

Stuart climbing the first pitch and setting up the belay below the rock overhang (bottom pic).

The crux was steep but very short lived yet held its surprises in varying ice and lack thereof in places!  Above this; ice hidden under the steep snow provided a good solid ascent up the narrow gully to another belay and then a top out and walk off to the safety of easy angled snow.

Stuart approaching (top pic) and passed (bottom pic) the second belay.

What can I say apart form days like this remind you were you should be!