Direct Start + Hidden Chimney (Sunday)

Direct Start (IV,5)

Glenmore Lodge - Intro to Winter Climbing

On the second day (Sunday) on their course at Glenmore Lodge, Chris and Dave wanted to do something slightly harder, and keep learning about winter climbing. We headed for Mess of Pottage again and got to the belay for Direct Start (IV,5**). I'd told them we'd have a go at some III today, and they said that this pitch looked okay, so that was that. I tried to show them the hooks on the way up, but there was also a lot of ice and neve for the axes as well - it was a great pitch in good condition. 

Looking down at the first few moves, and trying to tell the guys the basics of mixed climbing

Telling the guys where the hooks are

Chris near the belay

Dave nearly there - phew

Dave and Chris got to the top of the pitch and I told them it was a IV,5 in the book. The hard part of the day was over, only the III of Hidden Chimney to go. The conditions were brilliant, the rock was often clean and dry and it was like placing gear in the summer (but on a cold day) - the ice solid and the neve firm.

Getting on to Hidden Chimney

Hidden Chimney in excellent condition

The top of the climb

I found the loose block on the RHS (looking down) of the last section of Hidden Chimney. It looks like a good belay spot, but then a simple test of the block shows that it rocks easily, and unnervingly - so it was time to top out instead. Chris and Dave climbed really well, and had a great day. On the way down they were keen to check out the emergency shelters dug out on the morraines. Cheers Dave and Chris for a top weekend.

Relaxing in an emergency shelter

I'm chilling in the sun as the guys are in the shelters

Fingers Ridge

Happy Days