Selasa, 17 Maret 2015

The Curtain Rail - A Short Day

Climbers on the main CIC icefall
Lena and I found ourselves on a rare day off together this winter. We had a slow start on the Ben path up to CIC, and soon found ourselves trail breaking in the deep new powder and slab. We initially had objectives higher up on the mountain, but we wanted a quick fun hit of climbing so we jumped on a low short climb near the trail - The Curtain Rail (IV, 4 *). A team in front of us had cleared a little of the route, but they didn't seem to clear many gear placements, so Lena had to work hard to build the initial belay and the first pitch. On the first pitch I thought I had wasted my time carrying ice screws, but then on the second pitch, I turned the corner and there was the ice :) . The ice was thick but a little brittle, dinner plating. Suddenly arriving at Ledge Route, the climb was over - and so it was an early return to the van. A good short day.

Vanishing and Italian were busy. I did see a team high on the Orion Face, and I think Al was heading for Tower Ridge. The NF car park was busy, so there were probably some other teams on Tower Ridge too.

The Curtain (missing the initial section of ice), and the Curtain Rail on the left hand side.
Large queues for Vanishing Gully. Also Italian Climb (and Right-Hand) were busy today
Ken walking up to make his belay on Italian Right-Hand
Lena sets off on the first pitch of Curtain Rail
Approaching Lena's belay
Lena finishing off the second pitch of Curtain Rail - finishing on Ledge Route
Lena pulls over the ice onto the fresh powder on Ledge Route

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